Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whats the best way to get this ball joint replaced? I found out have a little play in mine, maybe a few mm, and I cant find any replacement parts. It doesn't seem to affect anything as its pressed down with the car on the ground but when I go over bumps I think its making a small clunk.

11ReM2FWVJdECe7PB00Wi5zLAY1Qy.jpg

Edited by sonicz

R33?

If so

the Nissan part numbers are -

40579-33p01 - oil seal

40030-33p07 - upper bearing (also looks very much like a 6203 bearing)

40030-33p12 lower bearing

Yes R33 GTST. Thanks. I will try hunt them down. I'm guessing the whole hub assembly has to come out, and then is it a hard job? I'm also getting the mechanic to change the bearings while he's at it. Is there anything else that is easily changed while doing this particular job?

I havent changed teh trunnion/king pin bearings yet...they are sitting beside me...hence easy to get part numbers lol

Id do the sway bar links while you are there.

Splitting them shouldn't be too hard. Cap off the top. Castellated nut off. Apply pressure (prybar or balljoint splitter if there is room, which I think there isn't) to spread the joint and then shock it with a pair of big hammers. Can do it on car with the hub assembly still attached at the lower ball joint. Just have to remove the upper arm outer and any other stuff that's in the way (steering, brakes).

I vaguely know someone that works at nissan parts. I'll call them and ask if he can order the part numbers. How much did you pay for yours? Then take them to my mechanic, and hope he knows how to do it..

Sway bar links, never done those, are these ok?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/251689653517?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=107&chn=ps

$T2eC16hHJGkE9no8jDMsBRTWwfe28g~~60_57.J

only $55 (keeping costs down is a priority)

Or should I go on the hunt for aftermarket ones? These Taiwanese made parts don't seem to last as long as stock, as my outer tie rods wore out in a year or two and the stock ones lasted 20.

I have hard race rear camber control arms, as they were the only brand aside from stock that have rubber instead of rose joints and I was very happy. They settled the back real nice and allowed me to have the camber set to a more reasonable level than the stock parts. Why is the stock rear camber so negative anyway. Wears out the tyres on the inside while the rest of the tread is good and makes gripping dangerous in the wet. I also have more grip in the dry to when set at 0.9 negative camber compared to the stock with was about 1.6 (too much imo)

Edited by sonicz

Are they compatible with the stock swaybar though? No point upgrading sway bar links if the sway bar is soft. I guess the stock ones are horrible and I should look for a complete swaybar kit anyway, but that is about $600 compared to $55. I'll have a look at if anyone is selling used swaybars, since they dont wear out I should be able to get 2 used swaybars and new sway bar links for cheaper.

  • 4 months later...

R33?

If so

the Nissan part numbers are -

40579-33p01 - oil seal

40030-33p07 - upper bearing (also looks very much like a 6203 bearing)

40030-33p12 lower bearing

Not sure if i have this right but it looks like it. Tried to take a pic with the wheel on, do better tomorrow :)

My mechanic said my "Top Outer Ball Joint Arm " needs replacing or whatever but he cannot find one anywhere . It seemed to be the same as the on in the photo, pressed on or something like that??

He is away until tomorrow so I will have to wait and go and see him, take a couple of pics

I contacted Kudos and he said the R34GTR doesn't use any ball joints in the top arm only on the lower and there were 2, an inner(4 bolt) and outer(2 bolt)

Mine is a 1999 R34GTR are they different ?

post-52098-0-57796200-1430371483_thumb.jpg

The upper is not a ball joint. That's why you won't find one if you go looking for a ball joint. It is just a bearing really. Upper spindle bearing, or various other terms.

Thanks mate

That is some sort of press type fitting ?

Its easy as pie

Unbolt, way bar and upright, pop that cap off, undo the bolt and it slides right out.

Press old bearings out, press now ones in, fill with grease and done.

Will check it out, thanks

It always looks easy when someone else does it that knows what they are doing :)

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish

The upper is not a ball joint. That's why you won't find one if you go looking for a ball joint. It is just a bearing really. Upper spindle bearing, or various other terms.

Looks like mine might be the Kingpin bearing

Nissan do infact call it a kingpin

Went to the mechanic and he shook his head when I said it was not a ball joint but a Kingpin or upper spindle bearing and said it was a ball joint ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...