Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Look at recent posts for updated list of remaining items.

Series 2 rs (rwd) SILVER

Wrecking

All parts available. Car is undamaged and registerable.

If not listed ask. If a price is no good let me know, I'm negotiable and reasonable person. I want to sell the stuff, butnot give it away!

RB25 Neo bottom end, 140,000ks excelllent condition $500

Rb25 neo head, modiifed for external vct feed for 2530 use. including oil line and tee piece, standard cams and covers, no vct pulley or cas $600

vct pulley with mod to allow adjustment and diallling in of cams $100

Alternator $75

Starter motor $75

AFM, worked great $60

Neo CAS $200

stock air box and snorkel $60 suit R34 also

idler and tensioner, less than 6000k's use $50

HKS return flow type r cooler kit. Flowed just over 300rwkw no worries. Has been dented into something, doesnt leak or affect performance. This is a full size core, with no cutting required at all. Including all clamps and joineres etc. Been painted black. Can spin around and not see dented bit so all good! $250 Also fit R34 GTT

Very nice sounding custom 3 inch dump back exhaust. Below legal noise, no drone!!!!! Hoooker aerochamber muffler and berklee straight through rear, flowed over 300rwkw no worries, fits nicely. 1/2 of it is stainless, all mandrel bent $400

Standard exhaust manifold $50

rb26 oil pump $80 great for rb2530 build

R33 standard turbo, great condittion $180

Fan with clutch,no cracks, worked well $55

Alluminium radiator , pretty thick , stock shroud fits on it. kept car temperature controlled perfect, $100

Air con compressor $75

Power steering pump $75

Series 2 tail lights, complete, perfect condition $250

Headlights $250

Grill, dodgy black paintjob, $50

High beam lights, (spotlights in the grill ) $150

Standard RS front rotors, good condition,no shudder etc. $75

Front calipers with pads clips etc $50

rear rotors $75

Rear calipers $55

RE4R01B standard valve body $75

Instrument cluster (dash) auto, just over 100,000 ks $125

Power window switch $75

climate control unit $65

Steerig wheel and airbag, good nic, $75

Clear side indicators, fit a bit loose but never fell out! $25

Tailgate $100

RS4S alloy wheels, rear tyres 1000k's use, Maxxis tyres, front more use but still heaps left , wheels in good condition, few small marks $400

HEAPS more, cant remember, ask me for a price or make an offer.

PICS Available, cant be bothered uploading heaps of pics for no reason, ask me if you need a pic.

Cheers

Ben

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What size and offset are rims

17 . That's all I know.

Stock rs4s rims, might check tommorow otherwise Google it ...

Cheers.

Ben

Does the radiator have the transmission stuff in the lower tank?

Is the steering wheel tiptronic or manual?

Edited by Race__24

Does the radiator have the transmission stuff in the lower tank?

Sort of. One of the fitting is stripped. I wouldn't run the trans fluid through the rad anyway. You are best off with a decent trans cooler. The rad loop is more a warmer than a cooler anyway.

Best setup is a huge trans cooler with a thermostat and fan. Even then depending on where you live most aussie places the thermostat isn't required.

Steering wheel gone.

Lots gone.

Pretty much just engine stuff left. Well that's not true, still got headlights taillights grill etc.

Pretty negotiable.

Depending on if a previously interested guy actually buys stuff I will have whiteline rear sway bar, nistune with licence and cable, z32, id725 injectors, fuel pump and cradle and modified lid, r34 gtt brakes new rotors and pads, and subframe lock kit

Edited by Ben C34

Do you have an uncut reo? Are they the same as s1?

How much for the Nistune?

No uncut reo. Not sure if different or not

At this stage the nistune is likely sold, but if not I'll be in touch.

No uncut reo. Not sure if different or not

At this stage the nistune is likely sold, but if not I'll be in touch.

I'm not 100% that it would be any use to me anyway, I'll need to wire it in parallel to the s1 ecu to keep the box working. I'll have to talk to some people.

I'm not 100% that it would be any use to me anyway, I'll need to wire it in parallel to the s1 ecu to keep the box working. I'll have to talk to some people.

Yep. I should have realised yours was s1 based on the reo question!

Silly autos. They really screw things up.

I'm not sure what would need to be swapped to make it work. I wonder if whole box from s2 would do it (also have one, with servo and shift kit)

Otherwise if I was you i would just go full manual valve body and use whatever ecu.

If I was to go manual I'd just go full manual conversion. I'm going to talk to the guys at mv automatics and see what it actually needs to shift.

  • 3 weeks later...

Have you got the rear bumper bar?? Would this fit a S1. Price??

Cheers Shane

Rear bar gone.

Not sure if it would have fitted.

Hey Ben do you have auto transmission? Cheers

Yes, it might be sold though.

Only suit rwd either stagea or r34.

With MV shift kit and billet second gear servo.

Will let you know if the other guy bails.

Cheers

Ben

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey after passenger visor, rear cup holder, rear boot handle cup and centre dash pocket and bonnet struts too.

Also still have the climate controller? Is it a single din or the large sat nav thing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...