Oil Squirters

[Rbdirty30]

I put these pictures in the tas section because that's were I'm form but is pretty dead in the tas section. so here's my my block its a r31 series 2 block my engine builder machined my block and fitted rb26 oil squirters out if my old motor in to the rb30 . We did a few tests on a A8 block that was stuffed before going ahead . Im pretty happy with how it turned out

[Ben C34]

Looks good.

How hard a time is this engine looking forward to?

[Rbdirty30]

Cheers! I'd say it's going to get a fairly hard time I'm not one for mechanical sympathy, but spending so much on the motor this time around I reckon I'll use my head instead stead of my right foot haha

[Dobz]

Good work! Will you slot your pistons to accommodate them?

[GTRPSI]

I avoided it as the blocks a bit thinner than the RB26 ones there.

I ceramic coated the pistons and used Nitto rods with the built in oiling squirter holes.

And a handfull of other oiling mods to keep the oil down low like crack scraper, 26 windage trays on the 30 girdle etc....

[Rbdirty30]

There was talk about drilling a little hole on each side of the under side of the piston for the oil to cool down the tops of the piston the same as a 26 piston, he was also talking about drilling a tiny hole throw my h beam rod so they have bore squirters, but he wasn't to sure if it would change the strenght of the rod.

[Rbdirty30]

My Builder said if the bottom end lets go or breaks he will supply a new bottom end for me because he wanted to try these modifications to see how they go, he's also my dads good mate so I'm getting it done for near nothing , so I thought I might aswell go all out on it then, yeah it's also getting the crank scraper and windage tray of the 26 aswell I didn't no nitto made the oil squirters in the rods, but I had a set of precision Rods so that's why we used them

[GTRPSI]

The crank scraper im talking about is a aftermarket mod, not the factory windage trays.

Took me about 3-4 days of mucking around to bring it where i wanted it.

[Rbdirty30]

Wow that awesome work! Do you sell them?

[GTRPSI]

I buy them in bulk from the states, i am about to place a order on another batch end of this month.

You will need to adjust the fitment to your crank and rods, you need 1mm minimum space from the crank and rods to the plate and a bit extra to the thrust direction of the crank.

Took me a few evenings of grinding to shape to find what worked best for my application, the picture above is new as they arrive before shaping to fit.

[Rbdirty30]

pm me your phone number, I'll be keen to get grab one

[luke gtr]

I avoided it as the blocks a bit thinner than the RB26 ones there.

I ceramic coated the pistons and used Nitto rods with the built in oiling squirter holes.

And a handfull of other oiling mods to keep the oil down low like crack scraper, 26 windage trays on the 30 girdle etc....

do you have pics?

Wanting to do this, but engine machinist is saying it won't fit/work.

Would love to show pics saying otherwise.

[GTRPSI]

Ive kept my build private and only shared it with 1 person here to help them out with their 3.2L stroker.

Here are some of the oiling mods....

Glyptal paint to aid oil drainback in a deburred block, note the annular grooves like in a RB26 block to provide extra oil and use RB26 race series bearings in a RB30 block.

Drilled out all the oil feeds, you can see the tip of the drill bit going into the main feed channel.

Drilled out the oil drains to 10mm, this will require opening up the head gasket oil drain points also.

There are lots of other little things that can be done to assist oiling and block strength such as Cryo treating the block, partial grout filling etc......

[GTRPSI]

Forgot to add, in the pic below you can actually see the crank girdle with the holes i drilled and tapped to take the RB26 windage trays, yes it does fit, clears the rods and crank and the crank scraper (not pictured) fitted in also, everything clears including the sump.

Also if your running a Tomei oil pump there are some extra block mods needed to make it fit, it wont bolt straight on, also the thrust main bearing is modded to provide extra oil to handle the 5700lb pull clutch pressure plate.

Edited January 17, 2015 by GTRPSI

[luke gtr]

Thanks.

My machinist has told me the windage trays would foul the rods.

[GTRPSI]

More than a 7-8mm of clearance with Nitto rods and RB30 crank everywhere.

Even if it did foul, you could cut holes in those sections to provide 1mm of space between the rods or crank to the tray and take advantage of the crack scraper effect in those areas....id say the machinist is looking for easy work without hassels....(which there are none appart from drilling and tapping 12 holes and threads in the right place)

Edited January 18, 2015 by GTRPSI

[Rbdirty30]

I like the work you've put into your block GTRPSI! I might have to do some more erase arch into my engine build

[Wyn]

GTRPSI, just out of curiosity is that a normal 240v hand drill you are using there ?

What bits / approx length are you using to drill the oilways out in the block ?

Not that i'm building one (yet) but handy to know if n when

[GTRPSI]

Yes just a normal Bosch 240V drill.

Drill bit for the oil drains needed to be moved out right to the edge of the drills chuck for the last Cm as it was a little too short, you can see the edge where it was slipping, the drill bit below was my first pass at 8mm, then went up to 10mm which was a longer drill bit, 180mm and longer is what you really need to comfortably get through the block without changing the position of the drill bit to get the last 1cm or so through.

[GTRPSI]

Sorry you asked for oil ways, they were done at 8mm for the main bearing feeds, just a normal drill bit from a drill bit set, did not have to be longer than a standard bit.

Then chamfer the hole a little to take the sharp corners off.

The grooves in the block for the RB26 bearing feeds were done with a steady hand and old bearings as guides with a dremmel with a cutting wheel, reason i didnt machine them out was because of a design/engineering issue with the design of the RB26 type of groove from the factory, i saw a area they could be improved.

The factory RB26 design is deepest at the center of the bearing and shallower where the oil feed comes out creating a restrictive point on oil exit into the channel, mine by hand are deepest at the oil feed point and gradually taper thinner as they approch the ends of the bearings.

After all that, the mains were line honed to ensure there were no high spots and that everything was straight and true for the crank.