Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i need any info or suggestions on a new clutch as possible. my went on me last night in all gears but 1st (and 1st is slipping) so i need a new clutch asap as i have no way of getting around. however my budget is severaly limited so 1k for a clutch is completely out of the question, i need a heavy duty clutch as i will be upping the boost soon anyway. so if anyone knows where to get a good heavy duty clutch without breaking my small budget plaese let me know asap!!!

also any websites u can suggest would be great. ive tried just jap and im looking at about $700 for a good one and $550 for a decent one.

cheers guys.

Andrew.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45309-blown-my-clutch/
Share on other sites

I have a Exteme single, cushioned mutliple ceramic button one, with a heavy duty pressure plate.

It has seen much abuse and 40,000km of life, and still feels great and doesn't slip

They are about $550 from memory

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45309-blown-my-clutch/#findComment-923117
Share on other sites

did you get it from horsepowerinabox.com??? becasue they have that exact clutch for $550

i have heard mixed reports about the extremes but most are hearsay so its good to hear a 1st hand oppinion. what mods have you got???

how much was it to install??? im not sure how much im going to get hit up for installation, proably a few hours???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45309-blown-my-clutch/#findComment-923224
Share on other sites

I got mine from Adelaide Clutch Services, who make them and supply Horsepowerinabox etc.

Cost me about $220 for it to be installed, but I also got a lightweight cromoly flywheel as well so I didn't need any machinging done of the original - I'd say at a guess $250-300 to install it.

Mods are HKS 2510 turbo and all the usual bits, making 200rwkw

A mate of mine (Freebaggin) is making 280rwkw through the same clutch, and whatisname is making 299rwkw, both cars have run 12 sec 1/4's and the clutch has survived no probs

They are a good clutch, and providing you don't ride them they will last for a long time. Ceramic type clutches don't last long if you ride them lots.

I drive mine everyday in city traffic, and after a day or so you get used to the grabbines of it

For the price they are terrific

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45309-blown-my-clutch/#findComment-923244
Share on other sites

hahaha so u drive it gently then?? lol.

well this seems like a pretty decent deal. i'll look into it a bit further, but so far the it seems like the best.

yeah it get driven around like I have my mum in the car..............:rant:

I would say for the money, you will be hard to find a better clutch IMHO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45309-blown-my-clutch/#findComment-923579
Share on other sites

If you really need to drive the car but dont have the money for a heavy duty you could always just go for a standard clutch for the meanwhile they are much cheaper. Yeah clutches are a bitch, a decent heavy duty and installation u are looking at like $800ish. Your other option is that nissan patrol 4WD clutches also fit into r33 gts-t's...and they are supposed to be heavy duty and the price is pretty good aswell so you could try that, there are posts in SAU about the nissan patrol clutch, how much it costs and the exact model to order....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45309-blown-my-clutch/#findComment-923720
Share on other sites

ok ive sourced one from melbourne, its an exedy heavy duty ceramic button clutch. for $400 shipped.

i just hope that it is my clutch that is blown, and not something else, i dont want to find out that after fitting it that it was just my slave cylinder.

but seeing as it grabs occasionally but most often just revs out in whatever gear ive selected i cant see what else it could be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45309-blown-my-clutch/#findComment-926533
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...