Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I bought an R32 GTS-T that has had a RB25 box put in it sometime in the past.

Now I have done some reading and know that you need to convert the electronic speedo to a mechanical one in order for it to work in the car. I'm assuming that this has been done in my car since the speedo is working, however the speedo is out by about 25kph at 100kph. I'm just wondering what you guys think is causing this?

My uneducated guesses are;

The Diff?

Maybe something to do with the mechanical speedo conversation?

Also the car has a GTR dash cluster (could this make a difference?).

Are any of my guesses close? where should I start? I would like to get the speedo as close as possible (doesn't have to be perfect).

Cheers in advanced,

Stuart

Here's the list of things that can affect it.

R32 GTSt diff ratio is 4.3:1. RB25 turbo diff ratios are 4.11:1. Difference of 4.5% which is not enough to explain your error.

R32 GTR diff ratio is 4.11:1, like the RB25 diffs, so that could/should get rid of the 4.5% error above anyway.

BUT....and here's the big but.....The GTR speedo expects to be turned at a particular speed by its speedo cable. That speed is dependent on the number of gears on the drive in the box and the end of the cable. The R32 GTSt works the same way, but it is entirely possible that there is a ~20-25% difference in the cable speed required to work the 2 different speedos, because the 2 different boxes (32GTSt and 32GTR) are not in any way related to each other.

So, I reckon that your easiest test (not that it's all that easy) is to try a GTSt cluster in the car and see if the speedo reads correct (or actually, maybe about 4.5% wrong rather than 25%).

I don't know anyone else who has transplanted a GTR cluster into a GTSt to know if there is that big a difference in the cable speed required for a given road speed, but I'd be willing to believe that there is and that many people who have done it either haven't realised or just live with it!

FWIW, if you do the Navara sender based mech speedo conversion (like I did in my R32) for the RB25 turbo box, then you can get nearly zero% speedo error. Mine is accurate to within 1km/h across the whole normal range (say up to about 130 km/h).

  • Like 1

BUT....and here's the big but.....The GTR speedo expects to be turned at a particular speed by its speedo cable. That speed is dependent on the number of gears on the drive in the box and the end of the cable. The R32 GTSt works the same way, but it is entirely possible that there is a ~20-25% difference in the cable speed required to work the 2 different speedos, because the 2 different boxes (32GTSt and 32GTR) are not in any way related to each other.

Awesome, this was basically my train of thought however I didn't know enough to make any real conclusions. It's good to know that I should be able to rule out the diff/box.

I will see if I can get my hand on a GTS-T cluster, I'd rather a GTS-T cluster anyway, while the red and silver dials are nice, the "Front Torque" dial is useless and just makes the car seem "ricey".

When I get my hands on one I will post the results up here and let you know.

Cheers!

You need to do more research.

I'd say the drive pinion has the wrong tooth count, something for you to check.

You can't just buy any GTSt instrument cluster as there's at least 2-variations through the years.

You'll need to verify your model car and buy the one that suits.

25kph wrong is a biggie.

Are you sure the previous owner didn't remove the needles and replace them incorrectly. (the white faced dial syndrome)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...