Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

i finally got to see my import today a r34 gtt.

sadly I was pointed to some rust.. hmmm

just how big a deal is rust? is this going ruin my importing experience?

the location is front quarter panel on the engine bay side. not so much the shock absorber mount but the wall between firewall and the shock mount bump.

so Id call this thick rust here..

....

then at the bottom underneith car around jackpoints there is some..

medium level

...

the area where jackpoints are, the main chassis strongpoint

has lite rust spots.. imo not to be concerned...

photos will come later..

but yea, if anyone can provide me an idea of what aussie shops would expect to charge.

I hope my descriptions are clear enough..

let me know if you need any other info..

thanks....

Edited by ifixedit

Who on earth bought this on behalf of you without telling you that is was damaged

The problem is with rust is that what is originally surface rust turns into a full blown hole, with rust on the chassis rail i'd be very careful

  • Like 1

Who on earth bought this on behalf of you without telling you that is was damaged

The problem is with rust is that what is originally surface rust turns into a full blown hole, with rust on the chassis rail i'd be very careful

Thanks for your reply..

Actually a friend did.. dunno if he will be a friend for much longer haha.. I am trying to keep my head up about this little rust issue

so I do understand that the main rail having the rust can be a cause for concern, but if there are processes to prevent further deteration, than I will be ok about it.. I will monitor that. but I think rust eats metal so it's gotta be done properly!

I am still happy with my purchase as I requested a car that was as clean as possible.. they are getting pretty old these days and japan being pretty cold and wet with seawater all around salt+metal is bad news.. I traveled to japan recently and seen a few before I returned home, they were actually much worse this this.. Sadly I didn't see this in person over there as my trip ended 2 weeks before this was found.

so long as the rust can cut out the bad parts and do whats required to stop the spread of it..

...

I would like some ideas of how rust can be eliminated in say... my unique issue!

please dont say to me to throw away this car.. that hurts.. it's still a skyline...!!

I just need to be prepared on what's expected to happen next and have knowledge about the issue to continue..

Edited by ifixedit

Could be worse

A lot of it can be fixed at home if youre handy with the tin snips and a MIG welder. Check out some UK forums for some real rust horror stories, this is nothing in comparison

Take it to a decent panel shop and get some quotes. Most important part is to cut out the real rotten stuff and replace with fresh metal. surface rust can be treated without too much hassle. as long as repairs are done properly, it wont come back in our climate

  • Like 1

f**k it off mate. rust is car cancer. and for 7000 dollar car it aint worth the hassle.

I'm with this chap.

It isn't worth the hassle especially in Australia, for same amount, you can pick one up in better condition as I've done at one stage locally.

Thanks for the replies..

Unfortunately. Including shipping and other costs.. I am way over $7000.. so it hurts to think to toss it!

I did look at about 6-7 Skylines in melbourne.. and they were all rotten cars and were marked at $15-$21K for crap.

Ok this has rust, with anyluck it can be repaired properly... and I have a Mint Skyline.. The engine is very Young at only 79K and interior in like new..

Drives very well and panels are nice. No mis alignments. No previous crashes. this car is exactly what I wanted, less the rust..

Stored for too long... No use.. No Heat Rust Happened I suppose..

Does anyone know if this rust issue would be requiring repairs at the Compliance Stage or Roadworthy stage?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...