Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I just finally pulled out my spark plugs and it appears the plugs my car was running ar..

NGK R PFR5A 11

Now i know nothing about this plug.. and Ive been told by a number of people, the best Plug for my skyline is the..

NGK BCPR7ES

Anyone able to let me knwo the difference between these two?

Thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45371-pfr5a-11-or-bcpr7es/
Share on other sites

The one you took out was a heat range colder than the "recommended" one from NGK. Depending on what is done to your car that should determine what heat range you need. Correct me If im wrong (which i probably am) but i think for every 75hp you add to your engine you need to go a heat range hotter.

Ok Ive got it norrowed down to these few..

PFR5A 11 - These were in my car, and the safest bet is to replace them with the same one.

PFR6A-11 - These were Reccomended by NGK's Website

BCPR7ES - These were reccomended by a number of people on the forum

BCPR6ES - Same as above.

For record, my Car is apparently stock as a rock as far as i'm aware.

I am having some very bad starting problems first thing in the morning .. it MAY be the spark plugs, but im not sure if it is.

Stock heat range is apparently '6' .. So i wonder why the previous owner was running heat range '5' in the car?

I haven't had any probs with Pfr5g-11 they are expensive plugs but once you re-gap to the rite size say .8 - .7 depends on how much boost your running they should be fine.

You will also find a few most skylines will run a hotter plug eg the Pfr5 as it fires quicker then a colder plug eg the Bcpr7es.

Ok well I ended up getting a set of..

BCRP6ES

The reason being the following..

PFR5A 11 - Platnium 1.1 Gap

PFR6A-11 - Platnuim 1.1 Gap .. (yeha I know i cant spell that word)

BCPR7ES - Copper possible .9 gap

BCPR6ES - Same as above.

So I decidecd i wanted copper of platnuim, ..

and it just came down to choosing the correct heat range ..

considering i was running a heat of 5 .. i decided 7 would be cold, 6 is stock..

so ta-da!

im almost done im just not sue where one of these wires goes :D

Cool

make sure all the wires go back correctly, if its the same one I almost forgot to put back on, its the earth wire for the coils, it goes under the last bigish size bolt for the coils

let everyone know how it goes

Well I took it down the street and almost had to get it pushed home..

I forgot to tie up all the hoses so i blew a hose. or 4 :)

anywya with that fixed everything seemed fine.. except for that box that sits up the back over the cover.. i accident put the wrong bolts in the coil pack

so i dont have this bolted down .. also there is a little thing hanging off that box, which has an earth and i have NO IDEA of where to atatch the box and this earth too

:S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...