Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I just finally pulled out my spark plugs and it appears the plugs my car was running ar..

NGK R PFR5A 11

Now i know nothing about this plug.. and Ive been told by a number of people, the best Plug for my skyline is the..

NGK BCPR7ES

Anyone able to let me knwo the difference between these two?

Thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45371-pfr5a-11-or-bcpr7es/
Share on other sites

The one you took out was a heat range colder than the "recommended" one from NGK. Depending on what is done to your car that should determine what heat range you need. Correct me If im wrong (which i probably am) but i think for every 75hp you add to your engine you need to go a heat range hotter.

Ok Ive got it norrowed down to these few..

PFR5A 11 - These were in my car, and the safest bet is to replace them with the same one.

PFR6A-11 - These were Reccomended by NGK's Website

BCPR7ES - These were reccomended by a number of people on the forum

BCPR6ES - Same as above.

For record, my Car is apparently stock as a rock as far as i'm aware.

I am having some very bad starting problems first thing in the morning .. it MAY be the spark plugs, but im not sure if it is.

Stock heat range is apparently '6' .. So i wonder why the previous owner was running heat range '5' in the car?

I haven't had any probs with Pfr5g-11 they are expensive plugs but once you re-gap to the rite size say .8 - .7 depends on how much boost your running they should be fine.

You will also find a few most skylines will run a hotter plug eg the Pfr5 as it fires quicker then a colder plug eg the Bcpr7es.

Ok well I ended up getting a set of..

BCRP6ES

The reason being the following..

PFR5A 11 - Platnium 1.1 Gap

PFR6A-11 - Platnuim 1.1 Gap .. (yeha I know i cant spell that word)

BCPR7ES - Copper possible .9 gap

BCPR6ES - Same as above.

So I decidecd i wanted copper of platnuim, ..

and it just came down to choosing the correct heat range ..

considering i was running a heat of 5 .. i decided 7 would be cold, 6 is stock..

so ta-da!

im almost done im just not sue where one of these wires goes :D

Cool

make sure all the wires go back correctly, if its the same one I almost forgot to put back on, its the earth wire for the coils, it goes under the last bigish size bolt for the coils

let everyone know how it goes

Well I took it down the street and almost had to get it pushed home..

I forgot to tie up all the hoses so i blew a hose. or 4 :)

anywya with that fixed everything seemed fine.. except for that box that sits up the back over the cover.. i accident put the wrong bolts in the coil pack

so i dont have this bolted down .. also there is a little thing hanging off that box, which has an earth and i have NO IDEA of where to atatch the box and this earth too

:S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...