Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As above, it's in a half cut that I bought for the some body parts (damn that Ross stage in Tas!)

Haven't tested it yet, but it's complete with loom and computer so I'll compression test it this weekend to make sure it's all right.

$1300 either way. The cut is worth more, but it also means that I need to take it out of the bay, so call it even.

Basically I need the headlights and the front suspension, including hubs, arms etc, and maybe the front diff but the rest you can have.

Open to offers, can sell complete or short

Phone, PM or email any questions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45425-fs-rb20det-complete-with-at/
Share on other sites

Sorry no brakes. There are rotors, but I don't know what condition they are in.

Duncan still has a set of R32 GTR brakes off his car. You may want to speak with him.

Any reasonable offer on the motor will do. Depends on how much of it is wanted.

are there any differences between the RB20DET's in manual and automatic?

i need one for my car but its manual,

sorry, im pretty noob. but my RB20 is rooted and i dont know whether to get another RB20 or goto RB25 for my R32

No difference between engines for automatic or manual in pretty much any skylines. Sometimes diffs are different, but not an issue in this case. You will probably need to keep the sump off your existing engine as this one is a 4wd sump with the front diff attached.

RB25 is a more powerfull engine, but also much more expensive. Up to you which way you want to go.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...