Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys

im sure this has been covered countless times, but i got some funny reading and im just after a second opinion

Compression test values are as follows:

DRY TEST (no oil):

1 - 110 psi

2 - 105 psi

3 - 105 psi

4 - 100 psi

5 - 115 psi

6 - 100 psi


WET TEST (oil dropped in cylinder) :
1 - 120 psi

2 - 125 psi

3 - 105 psi
4 - 195 psi
5 - 150 psi

6 - 160 psi


the wet test threw me off about with how much variance there was, but as well as that it seemed quite low on the dry test
thanks in advance
cheers

ohh i forgot to mention its my mates r33 im looking to buy
just wanted to do a check before i commit....as far as i know it runs pretty sweet

Edited by stagea_1998

Why did you test it? Any problems?

If not just drive it. People get caught up and just confuse themselves with comp tests.

ohh i forgot to mention its my mates r33 im looking to buy

just wanted to do a check before i commit....as far as i know it runs pretty sweet

if it runs well and doesn't blow smoke, don't worry about it.

btw does it have standard cams? the number are low but cams can affect that (and also the exact testing procedure of course(

if it runs well and doesn't blow smoke, don't worry about it.

btw does it have standard cams? the number are low but cams can affect that (and also the exact testing procedure of course(

nah all standard internally theres just a few basic bolt ons

im pretty well inclined to say its fine but i always like to have a second opinion when im unsure

Edited by stagea_1998

Re The testing procedure - figures do not seem consistent (bad or good) - Dry V Wet variances. Readings on some are all over the place.

I'd have some one else who does this often re-test first. It's just too inconsistent.

Eg. cyl 4 has jumped 95psi

Variances

10

20

0

95

35

60

thats what i thought ...its a massive jump!!

i did use a second tester to check as well after i saw that to confirm the reading and sure enough it was dead on

ive done plenty of comp tests over the years on cars me and my brothers have bought and with the same test procedure id get pretty consistent readings...so id say ive an idea what im doing lol

this ones thrown me though....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
×
×
  • Create New...