Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

So a few weeks back I got a major defect on my ER34 25GT Series 1 NA and therefore had to get a roadworthy. My HKS exhaust wouldn't pass, so i purchased a Series 2 Turbo Stock Catback system with Muffler. After I swapped them back over, after driving for 5 minutes or so the Check engine light now comes on. If i drove the car hard it would stay off but if i drove it normally it would always come on. Now its coming on as soon as the car starts up.

I should also mention I have smashed out the inside of the cat so im assuming thats what might be causing it? Although, the sensor for the exhaust is closer to the engine i think?

Someone told me i should disconnect the battery for 12 hours as that resets the ECU which will then allow it to re learn everything.

Basically I'm just asking for help getting the light off?

Any ideas or comments would be great :)
Thanks,

Justin

I should also mention I have smashed out the inside of the cat so im assuming thats what might be causing it? Although, the sensor for the exhaust is closer to the engine i think?

not real smart to talk about that after getting defected. Cops read forums too you know!

R34s are sensitive and throw codes quite easily. Mine told me about coil packs before it even started missing under load. The R34 doesn't have a cat temp sensor (at least mine doesn't) so that won't be a problem. The only sensor in the exhaust is the O2 sensor, and that may be on its way out. You need to check the fault codes and that will tell you exactly what is wrong. O2 sensor and coil packs are the 2 most common issues.

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...

not real smart to talk about that after getting defected. Cops read forums too you know!

R34s are sensitive and throw codes quite easily. Mine told me about coil packs before it even started missing under load. The R34 doesn't have a cat temp sensor (at least mine doesn't) so that won't be a problem. The only sensor in the exhaust is the O2 sensor, and that may be on its way out. You need to check the fault codes and that will tell you exactly what is wrong. O2 sensor and coil packs are the 2 most common issues.

Yeah my R34 did exactly the same thing. The light came on for about 2 weeks no problems whatsoever, the light went away for a couple more weeks then came back and one of the coil packs had shit the tin intermittently in the process.

Obtain the code for a definitive answer.

Likely 02 Sensor - Chck and replace if faulty

Reset your ECU. disconnect the battery and push down on the brake pedal several times and hold it down for a few secs

Others have been known to take globe out. Issue with that is obvious (other faults wont be detected)

Have you or the previous owner replaced the coil packs. Also a common issue with the R34.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...