Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Seeing as I sold my r33 I have the following things just sitting around. Some is probably just rubbish, but let me know of any offers for anything.

2x RHS door hinges

1x red radiator cap to suit nissan painted in high temp paint - makes the car go faster

1x heaterbox. Switches/motors removed.. stuffed core. Probably rubbish, but maybe there is one little bit you need off there.

1x RHS stuffed door card off a s1 gtst. Again, not sure what you'd want it for. Maybe speaker grill or something (can be detached) if yours is broken. Could probably remove the cloth (I played around a little there it can just peel off) and apply to another door trim - the wear you see there isn't bad when you see it, just the light angle there.

1x RHS plastic bit off bottom of door card.

1x RHS indicator in EC.

1 x LHS inner door handle in GC

R33 airbox as is.. no filter or snorkel - however did pass an EPA like this back in VIC :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45558-misc-r33-crap-bris/
Share on other sites

Actually, forget that, cos then you'll have to head back to the post office just to cash in the $10 Money Order they'll send you.

PM me your bank account details, and I'll deposit $20 into your account... Just send it down normal mail to me, if you could shove it in a padded bag so it doesn't crack in transit, that would be much appreciated :cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...