Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, i have a few parts i would like to get rid of. Can ship anything here anywhere in Australia. Alternativly i live in Canberra for pick up. If your after anything give me a call anytime with any q's on 0410378429.

CHECK MY WEBISTE FOR ALL PARTS ETC... WITH PICS AND MORE DETAILS

www.geocities.com/neergnevets/

Keep Checking my page as ill post all the crap i need to get rid of and anything id like to swap for or buy.

If you have any of the following maybe can arrange a swap/trade:

- Apex RSM old or new style (ideally looking to trade for my pivot shift lamp)

- SR20DET Block with pistons, crank etc..

- S13 Clutch Pedal, man brake pedal, clutch master, man tail shaft, man gbox cross member for man trans swap.

- 2 White 16 inch rims (4x114) , have 2 already and after a second similar set.

FOR SALE:

Electric HKS Oil Pressure 60mm Guage $230,

BLITZ ELEC SOLENOID BOOST CONTROLLER SPEC S $450 BRAND NEW IN BOX, never used and fantastic. compare with everyone elses prices, bargain! cant believe i still have it.

GREDDY HARNESS $310

NISSAN BOOT LID TOOL BOX, $80

18inch ENKEI GZERO Rims and Falken Tires, $950

PIVOT SHIFT LAMP, $120

WALBRO The Popular 255LPH FUEL PUMP $200 Shipped

NARDI CLASSIC Steering Wheel,

Slightly Lower S13 Gab Springs, $80

ALL S13 AC Components, 6 pack of carlton

Pioneer 3 ways, Brand new 6 inches $80

+ some other crap along with pics etc.. on website, www.geocities.com/neergnevets/

i have some bits that you need....s13 clutch pedal,brake pedal,clutch master cylinder,gearbox crossmember tell me what u figure its worth so i can see if u have something i would trade ya....

looks like i may have found those parts just last night sorry mate. if not ill let ya know.

i have some bits that you need....s13 clutch pedal,brake pedal,clutch master cylinder,gearbox crossmember tell me what u figure its worth so i can see if u have something i would trade ya....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...