Jump to content
SAU Community

Aicv.. Good Or Bad.?

terryterry147

By terryterry147,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

terryterry147 Apprentice

terryterry147

Posted
Posted

ok lads. been a member a while but don't get on here much...BUT ...I have a question only because I cannot seem to find / fix the problem I have..?

I believe its called the "AICV" the little sucker at the back of the intake manifold that regulates AIR on a cold start !

I have a R33 GTST (RB25DET ) I am building from scratch and up to now have been able to fix the "many" problems with a total rebuild on these things !! (and NO history ? ) to the point !

at this stage the car starts and idles sweet as a nut at about 1100 rpm WITH THE AICV DISCONNECTED.!

and DOES drop off to about 700 rpm when hot..! I have removed said part and cleaned and replaced without a win.

IF I reconnect the plug to the AICV the revs straight away jump to approx. 1700 rpm and hold there HOT or COLD..? and I mean HOT ::ie:: rad cap removed and thermostat open watching rad fluid flowing though the rad.!

is the unit shot /seized..? or am I missing something else here..? many thanks in advance for ANY help given on this, it is doing my head in..! CHEERS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455785-aicv-good-or-bad/
Share on other sites
terryterry147 Apprentice

terryterry147

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so sorry "jiffo" should have put more info IN...!

the part in question IS ::: the bigger brown plug which I believe plugs into a small motor unit::: ( this plug once connected whips the revs WAY up at any stage of engine heat..??? ) the smaller ( under this ) plug does NOTHING at all at any stage..? the air regulator I have NOT touched at this stage purely because its a "bitch" to get too..!!! hope this helps a bit , and thank you for a quick reply on this my friend...

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

From that info your Air Reg is working properly and the fact that the AAC (when plugged in) immediately revs up the engine shows it's also working, but just getting the wrong info.

The idle is acceptable (700rpm hot) with the AAC unplugged so it doesn't look like vacuum leaks.

From basics and presuming a stock engine, is the cam timing correct and the CAS looking fairly central in its adjusting slots?

Have you checked the IGN timing with a timing light?

Have you set the TPS correctly?

That's about it for me.

terryterry147 Apprentice

terryterry147

Posted
  • Author
Posted

many thanks "JIFFO" for your input my friend....!

DEF....no vacuum leaks here ! :: ( I screwed up when I first placed the engine in the car ( after a rebuild ) and fitted a front mount ,but was not happy with the way the piping kit had to be routed though the driver side rail "so to speak" and up over the belt cover..? so I came back behind the FMIC and followed the stock route to the intake ! )

sooooooo....after checking timing ect::: I pulled the throttle cable UP under the bonnet by hand just to get the revs up to around the 4000rpm mark (this I DO NOT recommend EVER again ) I fouled the cable and the engine revved to the LIMITER...for a few seconds !!

YES...basically stock ::: am running R34 turbo with OP6 rear/ full 3 inch exhaust / MINES ECU.

on the first "fire up" (once fitted ) the engine idled a LOT higher and have played with the TPS (after marking its position first ) the air idle "screw" in/on the side of the unit in question ect;;ect.

WILL get the girl into "Gavin woods" tuning shop when I can..! (after a new frt screen/ auto electrician to re-wire the "low beam" lights..? they don't work from the NEW switch..? but can throw power to them and they light up..?? and get the crap window tint RE-DONE so I can see out the windows..!! (lol )

BUT....there is no way I can get the IDLE down to a respectable level with all plugs fitted on the AICV..??? all the best mate Nick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...