Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'Day,

The short story is that I need Q45 AFM pinouts - ie which pins on the AFM is Gnd, Signal & 12V ??

The long story is :

My PFC has been sitting in my draw for months cause I thought it was busted.

Recently the Microtech that replaced the PFC had some issues and has gone back to Microtech to be fixed.

Meanwhile, I put the PFC back in (no AFM) and sure enough it wouldn't start.

So I tried my standard ECR33 ECU without the AFM connected (as the Microtech didn't use an AFM) - and yep , starts OK, but won't rev past 2500 cause no AFM.

I connect up my Q45 to the standard ECU to get some resolution the ECU - just for a test - and low and behold - it didn't start.

So I try the PFC without and AFM again - no go.

I tried the PFC with the Q45 wired the way I think is right - and no go.

Out of frustration - I put the Y31/VG30DE AFM out of the Gloria in the Skyline, set the PFC to standard AFM )in etc), and hey presto - it works.. O M F G.

So, I either have a stuffed Q45 AFM or I am wiring it wrongly.

Can those Q45 AFM guys with PFC and ECR33 , please advise the pinout of the Q45 AFM ??

Thanks -

Very happy that the PFC works ! :D :D :)

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks Phil, Yep - that's the way I had it wired -

Are we sure that this is correct ? Cause if so, looks like I am in the market for a new AFM :D

Megs will the Z32 MAF have enough resolution for my setup ?

According to SK's table - Z32 only good for 255ish RWKW. (100rwkw short for me ) :D

Air Flow meters RWKW & Engine BHP

----------- OD ----- RWKW ----- RWKW ------ BHP ------ BHP

No of AFM's ----------- 1 -------- 2 -------- 1 -------- 2

RB26 ------ 65 ------ 149 ------ 299 ------ 271 ------ 474

RB20/25 --- 80 ------ 226 ------ 453 ------ 376 ------ 683

Z32 ------- 80 ------ 255 ------ 511 ------ 415 ------ 763

Q45 ------- 90 ------ 302 ------ 605 ------ 479 ------ 890

Also , can someone explain please the PFC settings for Air Flow ?

You have all the choices of std AFM, Z32 AFM, Q45 AFM and others.

But on my commander, all actual settings are the same for each AFM you choose.

eg

1. 0.64V 100%

2. 1.28V 100%

3. 1.92V 100%

4. 2.56V 100%

5. 3.20V 100%

6. 3.86V 100%

7. 4.48V 100%

8. 5.12V 100%

The are all the same for each AFM type ??

I don't get it.

PS - Midnight Tuners Unite :D

Can anyone tell me - if I get a Z32 AFM then tune the car. Then later if I go a Q45 again, will the car need a complete retune ??

 

Cheers,

Not "complete" retune, but the readings are quite different between the 80 mm and 90 mm AFM's. It seems to work out about "half" a tune (timewise).

Also , can someone explain please the PFC settings for Air Flow ?

     

     You have all the choices of std AFM, Z32 AFM, Q45 AFM and others.

     

     But on my commander, all actual settings are the same for each AFM you choose.

     

     eg

       

 1. 0.64V  100%

      2.   1.28V   100%

      3.   1.92V   100%

      4.   2.56V   100%

      5.   3.20V   100%

      6.   3.86V   100%

      7.   4.48V   100%

      8.   5.12V   100%

     

     The are all the same for each AFM type ??

     

     I don't get it.

 

 

 

PS - Midnight Tuners Unite :thumbsup:

Sorry for the second post, I forgot to mention this one /|

That's the AFM "correction" table, the actual ramp table (algorithm) for the AFM's is not visible. What you do with the correction table is match an unlisted AFM with one that is listed. You select the closest one in the list to what you are trying to match and then use the correction table to line them up. You do a basic tune of the car with a listed AFM and then fit the unlisted AFM and use the correction table to line up the maps using the map tracer.

Hope that made some sense :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...