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I’ve heard your a bit of a bender
Am now, folded a few things up to show it off. Haven't worked on a bender for 18yrs but the principles and practices are still the same. 8 x metal thickness. Annealing aluminium. Blah blah. Sheety:-)
well, the std pipe is a fkn wierd bit of kit with a massive traingular box section hanging off the back of the muffler - there to keep it flat at the back for the pillion I assume, but that is no longer an issue, so
I am thinking about 350-400mm in length, need to have an inlet to take 1 3/4' pipe. Gotta have a nice thick casing, as its going to have lugs welded direct to the case
Probably best to step it up from 1 3/4" to 2" into the muffler. :-) 44.45mm to 50.8mm we should have the reducers at work. Or I can make one. The magnaflow would be a 2" I/d. From memory and 304 s/s construction.?
Probably best to step it up from 1 3/4" to 2" into the muffler. :-) 44.45mm to 50.8mm we should have the reducers at work. Or I can make one. The magnaflow would be a 2" I/d. From memory and 304 s/s construction.?
1.6mm body thickness on the 304 s/s magnaflow 2" I/d So u could mount it off 4" accuseal clamps adapted, aluminised steel. Suss out the magnaflow website and epe website. Check what you need. I would recommend 2" I/d 4" o/d muffler 16" long. Will remove any high end frequency and make it sound low down. Cost price.
well, the std pipe is a fkn wierd bit of kit with a massive traingular box section hanging off the back of the muffler - there to keep it flat at the back for the pillion I assume, but that is no longer an issue, so
I am thinking about 350-400mm in length, need to have an inlet to take 1 3/4' pipe. Gotta have a nice thick casing, as its going to have lugs welded direct to the case
It would just need reinforcing-pads or you could call it a skin welded to the muffler then you build off of that.:-) like a bit of heavy equipment with lifting lugs. Or we could skin the whole muffler with heavier material.
It would just need reinforcing-pads or you could call it a skin welded to the muffler then you build off of that.:-) like a bit of heavy equipment with lifting lugs. Or we could skin the whole muffler with heavier material.
Mounting hoops or clamps would be the way to go with it. To save on weight and not stress out the muffler body.
On 2/12/2018 at 11:43 PM, Beyond Blue R33 said:

Mounting hoops or clamps would be the way to go with it. To save on weight and not stress out the muffler body.

A couple of barrel hoops on one of hose 4" diam flat black race series round body ones would look absolutely tits, and exactly the sort of rat look i want. Chuck lots of exposed weld seams on the rest of the pipework, ceramic coated flat black as well, and done!

will sort out a part number etc and PM you for a price

A couple of barrel hoops on one of hose 4" diam flat black race series round body ones would look absolutely tits, and exactly the sort of rat look i want. Chuck lots of exposed weld seams on the rest of the pipework, ceramic coated flat black as well, and done!
will sort out a part number etc and PM you for a price
Cool.

So this is what I had done today. She the cars aircon works finally!. Ice cold. Piggy back ECU is in with a stock tune but the cars now backfiring and idling really rough so in going to have to take it back next week and get it looked into.

15186030412158558815004532158197.jpg

  • Like 1
Now wind the boost to the moon!!!
Not everyone enjoys winding the boost up to 26psi cause they can with water/methanol injection till it spins all the way through third on sticky tyres. Xcept you.[emoji41] Animal. Hand full of opposite lock at 130km. Trevs.
So this is what I had done today. She the cars aircon works finally!. Ice cold. Piggy back ECU is in with a stock tune but the cars now backfiring and idling really rough so in going to have to take it back next week and get it looked into.
15186030412158558815004532158197.thumb.jpg.6739a2204bc4cde07bfb6523a0421f60.jpg
Yeah mines a pain in the ass with the a/c on. I pulled and cleaned the Iacv (was pretty clean) and tested the idle up solenoid. Worked no probs but after research is the Iacv is blocked off because of the nistune. Clutch was siesed in the a/c compressor so put a new one on and got a re-gas. I've re-set the idle to 900rpm. But it drops to 550 when the thermo cuts in not the a/c compressor clutch. It only stalls if you have to brake hard or on and off the clutch pedal at the lights. If only we knew a auto electrician to the stars? Probably busy on a 3000hp CAT. Or building a mansion down south.
17 minutes ago, Beyond Blue R33 said:
2 hours ago, Manne said:
So this is what I had done today. She the cars aircon works finally!. Ice cold. Piggy back ECU is in with a stock tune but the cars now backfiring and idling really rough so in going to have to take it back next week and get it looked into.
15186030412158558815004532158197.thumb.jpg.6739a2204bc4cde07bfb6523a0421f60.jpg

Yeah mines a pain in the ass with the a/c on. I pulled and cleaned the Iacv (was pretty clean) and tested the idle up solenoid. Worked no probs but after research is the Iacv is blocked off because of the nistune. Clutch was siesed in the a/c compressor so put a new one on and got a re-gas. I've re-set the idle to 900rpm. But it drops to 550 when the thermo cuts in not the a/c compressor clutch. It only stalls if you have to brake hard or on and off the clutch pedal at the lights. If only we knew a auto electrician to the stars? Probably busy on a 3000hp CAT. Or building a mansion down south.

Yeah well im gonna ring Mark (C-Red) tomorrow and let him know whats happening and see what he thinks?

How did she run to and from Alcoa today?

Flawlessly

Actually the spare was upside down and rumbled constantly. With no amps I had nothing to listen to other than Zorst, Spool and rattle/rumble



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