Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Rewiring my fuel pump with a relay to suit a Walbro 460l but have ran into some problems..

It's wired as follows

On the relay terminal 30 goes to the battery via 8g wire

Terminal 85 goes to the chassis

Terminal 86 is from the old fuel pump wire (the side going to the fuel pump controller)((the trigger wire))

Terminal 87 is going to the fuel pumps positive wire.

The pump is earthed directly to the chassis.

Problem is the car turns over but won't fire. I can hear the fuel pump priming. It only runs when using the original positive wire on the pump

I have tried using different relays

Disconnecting the fuel pump controller

I even ran a wire directly from the battery to the fuel pumps positive just to see if it would start... And it wouldn't

The previous owner had wired the pumps earth directly to the body

Any help appreciated!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457218-32-gtr-fuel-pump-rewire/
Share on other sites

Fuel%20Pump%20Relay.gif

edit**

Seems yours is wired the same.

Are you sure it is the fuel pump priming and not the attesa pump you are hearing?

It doesnt make sense that it will work with the original wire and then not through the relay.

Have you checked the terminals on the relay after you have switched the ignition to reds? By that I mean go to pin 86 make sure you have your pump signal then go to 87 and check to see if power has come through.

this is very weird.

maybe post some pictures

Cheers for the reply,

Yeah pin 86 gets power for a couple seconds after flicking the ignition on.

Pin 87 has power for a couple seconds also after turning on the ignition, I can heaR the pump and have checked with a multimeter that it's getting 12v through the relay

Something else is stopping it from firing...

Ecu is Nistune.

Something that needs to be double checked:

The polarity on the pump. Don't be embarrased if you get it wrong. From memory the black wire is positive on the fuel pump or something weird.

If the polarity is reversed it will sound like it's running but really it's going backwards and the car won't fire

The earth is attached to the chassis whether the pump is powered via relay or the original wire so polarity must be correct.

I did think the voltage going to terminal 86 might of been too low to turn the relay on (pump is getting 9.4v when the car is idling) hence why I tried with the pump connected straight to the battery.

Cheers for the replies!

Edit: I have a feeling the wiring has been messed with further up the harness

Edited by 33SOM

I don't like having a relay operating the FPCM operating another relay, simple is best.

So I'd use the ecu Pin 18 as my trigger. (Pin 18 goes to ground to activate the pump)

My relay would have:

Relay 85 to Pin 18 of the ecu.

Relay 87 to positive feed for the fuel pump.

12V+ in to Relay 30 and looped to Relay 86.

That's how its wired with the exception of the "red wire" being yellow/black in the 32r

I have tried a narva and a bosch relay with no luck.

Bypassing the relays it still wouldn't start..

The 'red wire' is not the yellow/black one that is earth. The power wire is white/purple. This is the case in 32 gts-t anyway I imagine it would be the same in GTR.

The 'red wire' is not the yellow/black one that is earth. The power wire is white/purple. This is the case in 32 gts-t anyway I imagine it would be the same in GTR.

I think it's different. From memory there was a brown/white and black wires

My experience with re-wiring has been with re-powers where there's no problem cutting into a harness, and I haven't touched my GTR so if my info isn't right feel free to correct.

To me Mr Nissan has already done the job for you.

For the positive feed, you just have to install larger cable to the fuel pump relay and of course larger cable from relay to the pump.

On the negative side of the circuit, the FPCM etc can all stay where it is, simply supply the pump with a larger cable chassis ground.

I believe the fuel pump relay for a 32 GTR is behind the centre boot trim. You should find 2-relays, one is fuel pump the other is ATTESSA.

post-73571-0-64059000-1433543831_thumb.jpg

Cheers for the replies.

I have tried with the fpcm hooked up and disconnected.

I also tried using the trigger wire before the factory fuel pump relay to trigger my relay

I tried switching polarities. The pump just blew a fuse.

As stated earlier the pump directly to the battery running at full noise still won't get the car started.

Positive wire on a 32gtr is 100% black/yellow. I pulled the pump out to confirm..

post-15782-0-06966000-1433551035_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...