Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys managed to get my hands on one of the above kits for my v35 6mt. i have found topics on this before but just wanted to see anyone out there who has fitted these to their v35/350z in nsw? Im looking at finding a tuner who has vq knowledge or have done a few of these as i want a reliable boosted car. Also wanted to see what power you guys had in these as i know its about anywhere from 230-280rwkw and on what psi? One last thing can anyone recommend good injectors and fuel pump and ecu? Any help would be appreciated and so keen on boosting my car.

280kw will never be reliable unless you run e85. The rods in the VQ35 are very light so you would need forged parts to make it reliable. 280kw is fairly easy out of this kit, it could make 340 or so on ethanol pretty easily.

I can supply injectors and pump cheaper than most if you want a quote.

Ecu wise, Haltech. You can also remap the stock ecu to some extent using Osirus, but the Haltech is the go.

200rwkw at 6psi.

And it not power that kills these motors, it's the huge amount of torque you can generate at low rpms, that stresses and bends/breaks the rods. You need to find a way to limit that.

I experienced full boost at 2200rpm.

Yea ill keep tuning on e85 in mind excuse my knowledge but how safe and is there still a chance the rods will go even though its tuned on e85? Which haltech ecu? i think there's a platinum pro and the elite which the guys at haltech spoke about when i called them today. Alex what figure dod you start off b4 the turbo kit was installed? Im surprised i would have thought at least 240kw? I guess every car/ dybno is different?

how much nm of torque did u end up with?

The kit added roughly 70kw.

Yes, there is absolutely every chance the rods will go on e85. Just accept it as a risk, and if it ventilates itself then build one up.

No torque figure. Can't measure torque accurately on anything but an engine dyno. Too many other factors going on.

Yeah, my power might be a bit low, but it was running the same boost, afr, and ignition timing as a lot of US cars claiming a lot more power. Dynos are different, operators are different, especially those damn Mexican ones hey Scotty :P

  • Like 1

Don't let it deter you like it did Alex though, I have seen what a 280kw 350z goes like at the track, and I would love one.

Just don't stand too close to the engine when it lets go, I still have burnt leg hairs from standing beside a turbo V8 Soarer when it threw a rod on the dyno. Not pretty.

i would be keen for higher power but i dont think i can afford buidling an engine, paying for this turbo build is already enough! say what another $10k to build it no?

i think im going to go 1000cc injectors and fuel pump from deatsch werks as ive heard the walbros are noisy but that could be cause they arent legit, the dw's look good quality imo...a few tuners ive have spoken to are tunehouse in marrickville, toys garage in fairfield, tom at bd4s however he referred me to powertune in wetherill park so did haltech and they also mentioned micks motorsports and i have spoken to crd in croyden and lastly autotech engineering i know have done a few aps kits......any tips and if yas have had work or heard of theirs please chime in.... any feedback as i would like to pick a tuner and get the kit installed as soon as funds are available.

I sell pumps and injectors, but I won't do Deatschworks anymore, too many issues with them. A genuine Walbro through me is $110 (cheap as chips) flows 400kw and should be nearly silent if you don't go bumping the fuel pressure sky high. I run two in my Stagea and can barely hear them. DW are just like every other made in China pump imo.

If you can't afford to build the engine, perhaps a few times, don't chase the power. If it ends in tears you can't blame anyone but yourself at the end of the day. There isn't any warranty in the tuning game and doubling the power of an engine has it's consequences.

  • Like 1

exactly right.mate and thats why i will most likely go conservative tune and be done with it...be happy with anything between 250-280 more than enough for a street car...i will look into the pumps and injectors now im in two minds.. but thanks for the comments boys will keep in touch with the build when it gets started!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hot tip, stop picking at shit. Live in bliss instead   From my recent experience in rust repairs, white it may seem to not go much further back, you'll still need to cut back a bit further.  From what I can see there, the outer skin, and the inner is rusted too. From what I can see you've got the inner one which is all structural, and window likely affixes too.   If tag Murray Calavera here, but my phone won't let me tag him, he'd probably be able to give the best advise.   I do know, welding roof panels is a right pain in the bollocks! Very heavy to heat distort the roof and warp it all.
    • Some of the filler.   Also if I look under the top flap of metal it starts looking good quite close to the edge. I get the feeling it doesn't go much further.
    • So, I finally started digging at the bit of my roof that was cracking and bulging a bit. Well, it was just thick filler that was covering some pretty bad rust. I didn't find the edges, I was too bummed to keep going.  There are a few holes as you can see. There was just so much filler but looks like no attempt under the filler to prime or use rust converter, just slapped filler on exposed rust.  Anyway, I'm going to take the windshield out and find the edges. I'd love to fix this myself as I'm pretty sure it'll be expensive to get done properly. I was thinking I could just get a cut piece from another E39 and just weld it in place as it would be the right size and shape.  Thoughts?
    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
×
×
  • Create New...