Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm after an M35 but have some questions. I'm not fussed on VQ25DET or VQ35DE I like them both. But I want keyless entry and black/grey leather no cloth or caramel leather, is that only available in a certain model? Is AWD worth it in regards to performance? As in handling and grip when launching/accelerating. How "smart" is the AWD system in terms of sensing wheel slip and sending more power to other wheels to compensate etc? Or is just a basic, rear wheels start slipping so then it send more power to the front wheels?

I understand these questions are probably common knowledge for most here but I've never really considered stageas until I had a family, cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457654-m35-decisions/
Share on other sites

The awd system is awesome, it is the same system as the gtr uses to give you a guideline.

Motor wise depends on what you think want. If you plan on leaving it stock stick with the vq35de if you want to chasr power go the vq25det as it is stronger and much easier to make power with and a hell of a lot cheaper.

Edited by Brick
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457654-m35-decisions/#findComment-7553882
Share on other sites

...although the VQ35 aftermarket support is much larger. :P

Don't know about the '01-'04 M35s but the '04-on models have keyless entry, you never have to take the key out of your pocket.

The AWD is great, I've spun up a wheel every now and then with robust corner exits at intersections but it's easy to control. Only downside is the 90kg weight penalty over RWD models.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457654-m35-decisions/#findComment-7553901
Share on other sites

The vq35de may have more after market options but is no where near as strong. If you plan on a power build using all those after market parts, especially additng boost you need to budget 10k plus for an internals build

Edited by Brick
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457654-m35-decisions/#findComment-7553935
Share on other sites

Oh yeah definitely, it all depends on what your end goal is. IMHO I'd say go for 35 for a daily cruiser or "no expense spared" build, but a 25 if you're only throwing a couple of thousand at it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457654-m35-decisions/#findComment-7553951
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the replies. I slightly prefer the 25T over the 35 but if the right 35 came up I would take. It's for a fun(ish) family car. So all series 2 have keyless entry? Sounds like I'll go for the AWD option :D

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457654-m35-decisions/#findComment-7553969
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the replies. I slightly prefer the 25T over the 35 but if the right 35 came up I would take. It's for a fun(ish) family car. So all series 2 have keyless entry? Sounds like I'll go for the AWD option :D

Drive one of each, then decide.

I have owned both for a number of years. Series 2 all the way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457654-m35-decisions/#findComment-7554152
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...