Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heu guys , im abit confused with this crank trigger ecu and loom iv perched .(microtech lt8s)

what I dont understand is it appears that it doesnt run the cas in the dizzy and has a billet cap with a seal that fits into the distributor hole in the head , with a separate loom from the main loom straight from crank trigger to the ecu , it also came with another loom from cas in dizzy to ecu witch is marked (cas if crank trigger unused)

So I did abit of research and have only come across threads saying it needs to run the cas in the dizzy and no ones seen or no of anyone removing the distributor completely to run only a crank trigger set up so I finally made my way to u guys. ????? So any input would be great

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457767-rb30-crank-trigger-no-cas/
Share on other sites

So batch injection would mean firing 2 injectors at a time right ?what r the pros and cons of this ?would there be any power loss or gain ?with having fuel built up waiting for the valves to open?

And as it was set up with the microtech x6 would this mean it still ren sequential ignition?

Or would this not work with no cas

So batch injection would mean firing 2 injectors at a time right ?what r the pros and cons of this ?would there be any power loss or gain ?with having fuel built up waiting for the valves to open?

Im running semi sequential injection on an RB25 and it seems to have mainly an effect on low load and low rpm AFRs, throttle response and also idle quality. I wish I had full sequential control, as such I would skip batch injection.

  • Like 1

So batch injection would mean firing 2 injectors at a time right ?what r the pros and cons of this ?would there be any power loss or gain ?with having fuel built up waiting for the valves to open?

And as it was set up with the microtech x6 would this mean it still ren sequential ignition?

Or would this not work with no cas

Just reading this again...semi sequential would mean firing groups of injectors. Mine are paired 1-5, 3-6, 2-4. Instead of pairing them like wasted spark where the cylinders are in the same position, the idea with injection is to inject fuel for 1 cylinder, then the next opening cylinder. (it works alright, but still a step down from fully sequential, for the reasons I listed above) As I understand, batch fire would be firing all injectors at a certain point.

Just reading this again...semi sequential would mean firing groups of injectors. Mine are paired 1-5, 3-6, 2-4. Instead of pairing them like wasted spark where the cylinders are in the same position, the idea with injection is to inject fuel for 1 cylinder, then the next opening cylinder. (it works alright, but still a step down from fully sequential, for the reasons I listed above) As I understand, batch fire would be firing all injectors at a certain point.

im following ya .1-5 3-6 2-4 as the firing order is 153624 so the next cylinder has fuel ready to be sucked in .r the down sides all that noticeable in street driving ? Or just on dyno figures?

I think iv read that na rb30s run semi sequential and rb30turbos run full sequential ?

Both I believe rely on a reference from a cas so id be right on asuming that nether of them could of been how my set up was configured

Im using my setup on my daily run around. There doesnt seem to be any problem once the engine is over 1200rpm, plus I get decent fuel economy too.

As for dyno figures, the difference between fully sequential and semi sequential is hardly a concern, as the engine is at such high RPM and rich AFRs anyways.

Having full sequential control over the injection timing can help to run closer to stoich AFRs at idle while still remaining smooth. Getting smooth cold starts can be tricky and it helps to have more control (although that will be ECU dependant).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...