Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Out of curiosity, what do you think s fair price would be for a clean 93/94 V-Spec with better than average Kms (say, 70,000-100,000kms) and service history?

I'm in the market too, but the prices fluctuate. I recently saw a '94 V-Spec with a few mods pop up for sale for $25k. But I've also seen some for mid-$30k.

No stock standard 32 gtr is worth more than 25k..unless it hasnt left the showroom or has less 40,000 kms...thats in my opinion. I have spent over 40k on mine including the car for 18k which was standard and pristine condition. It has a 800hp built motor, if i wanted to sell it i wouldve expected max 35k. Its a non vspec 92 model. Vspec doesnt mean shit these days besides a few extra coolers and brembos

based on the last coupe ive either missed or have spoken with the owners afterwards my guess would be that a well maintained R32 GTR now hovers around the 21-23K mark however there are still the usual low end versions getting around for sub 20K.

The 'good ones' are often not widely advertised and go quickly

Agree that Vspecs are rare and good ones even rarer but imagine that they attract a slight premium over the earlier cars.

the more i look the more i appreciate condition / maintenance and investment in the base car over model specs alone.

In google chrome, right click a blank space on the page and click translate to english, that will give you a rough translation to english, but as to importing one, speak to Iron Chef, if you're keen on the one i just linked, which might be just above 30k before you even get it on the boat here and complied etc etc, Iron Chef might be able to find you a good one for a good price.

I think you guys should check this out, looks like a well maintained example, he'd probably take 20 for it.

1993 Nissan Skyline Coupe on Gumtree http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/1083634881

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...