Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi again, I'm getting ready to have the cams I bought installed into the head (motors being built up as we speak) and I'm wanting some suggestions...

I bought a pair used from a member that were suppose to be 264 9.7 cams, but he sent me a 264 and a 256, 9.7, saying the other 264 was rust pitted.

So now I have a 264 and a 256. QUESTION: considering I'll be using my Electramotive TEC2 standalone, the CAS drive is not important to me, so which would you install where? (I forget which one has the CAS drive gear in it)

Like I said, I will not be installing the CAS mechanism, so either cam can go into either side... so which would be better where??

Thanks for the help

joel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45784-cam-question-rb26/
Share on other sites

Hi Joel, I would go with 256 inlet and 264 exhaust, I have seen this (longer duration exhaust) work on a number of GTR's. What's the lift on each cam? My RB31DET has 268 inlet and 272 exhaust, both at 10.5mm lift.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45784-cam-question-rb26/#findComment-932662
Share on other sites

Hi Joel, I would go with 256 inlet and 264 exhaust, I have seen this (longer duration exhaust) work on a number of GTR's.  What's the lift on each cam?  My RB31DET has 268 inlet and 272 exhaust, both at 10.5mm lift.

Thank You Sydneykid for the responce. The cams are both only 9.7 on the lift. I had the head set up on a end mill (for the lobe clearnce needed), and the notchs came out sweet ....

I also have the Tomie adj cam wheels to go with the cam upgrade, so if you would, please give me some advice on where to start with the placement of the cams.

thanks again

joel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45784-cam-question-rb26/#findComment-932685
Share on other sites

Duration is the amount of the time the valves are open for.

Lift is how far the valves open. Consider it as the washer in your tap; as you turn the tap on further, the washer lifts higher to let more water through. With the higher lift cams, the valves travel further into the the combustion chamber, thus the modification to the head is required for clearences.

As with longer duration cams, higher lift cams have their advantage in the higher rpm and hurt low rpm response. However, how much this rule effect the forced induction engines always puzzled me. Ben is running a huge turbo with crazy cams and has amazing response, does 400cc make that much difference...?

Back to you SK.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45784-cam-question-rb26/#findComment-933140
Share on other sites

Thank You Sydneykid for the responce. The cams are both only 9.7 on the lift. I had the head set up on a end mill (for the lobe clearnce needed), and the notchs came out sweet ....

I also have the Tomie adj cam wheels to go with the cam upgrade, so if you would, please give me some advice on where to start with the placement of the cams.

thanks again

joel

Hi Joel, 256 @ 9.7mm and 264 @ 9.7mm is a good combination, if tuned properly it will make power and run very nice with that combo.

As for cam timing all engines are different, I start at 1-2 degrees advanced on the inlet timing and 3-4 degrees retarded on the exhaust. The exhaust timing makes the most obvious difference to the power, but don't ignore the inlet. It helps the response as well.

Hope that helps :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45784-cam-question-rb26/#findComment-933161
Share on other sites

SK,

Interesting that you've found that shorter duration inlet cam works better than the reverse!

Tomei sell two PONCAM setups for the RB26:

Type A - 260 degree, 9.15mm lift intake / 252 degree, 9.15mm lift exhaust

Type B - 260 degree, 9.15mm lift intake / 260 degree, 9.15mm lift exhaust

I went for the Type B set for my car, but was wondering what the theory behind running a larger duration exhaust cam was?

Wouldn't it be best to have a longer duration intake cam to fill the cylinder and push out the gasses out of the exhaust valves as opposed to having a longer duration exhaust cam and relying on scavenging vacuum to suck out the gasses?

Hmmmm...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45784-cam-question-rb26/#findComment-933302
Share on other sites

SK, Interesting that you've found that shorter duration inlet cam works better than the reverse!

Tomei sell two PONCAM setups for the RB26:

Type A - 260 degree, 9.15mm lift intake / 252 degree, 9.15mm lift exhaust

Type B - 260 degree, 9.15mm lift intake / 260 degree, 9.15mm lift exhaust

I went for the Type B set for my car, but was wondering what the theory behind running a larger duration exhaust cam was?

Wouldn't it be best to have a longer duration intake cam to fill the cylinder and push out the gasses out of the exhaust valves as opposed to having a longer duration exhaust cam and relying on scavenging vacuum to suck out the gasses?

Hmmmm...

Hi Merli, I didn't really specifically choose the cams, they were available at the time at right price. I was really more interested in the higher lift (and lower price), than the small diff in duration. :cooldance

I have heard and read that longer duration inlet is better for the reasons you put. And they certainly sound valid. I have also heard and read that longer duration exhaust is better, based on the fact that the inlet is under direct boost and the exhaust isn't. So you have to run longer duration on the exhaust to match. I have also heard and read that a longer duration inlet cam makes the engine lumpy, so its not a matter of running a LONGER exhaust duration, but in fact running a SHORTER inlet duration. :confused:

There are plenty of arguments either way, I really have no idea which is correct as I haven't done or seen a proper comparison. I suspect that there may be a boost threshold where the longer inlet duration argument has substance. But I have no proof, it's just a suspicion. :headspin:

Most of the engines I am involved with, I suggest the same duration for both inlet and exhaust cams. Maybe that's the right answer. ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45784-cam-question-rb26/#findComment-934655
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...