Jump to content
SAU Community

Put Engine Out Of Time? Have I Bent A Valve?

Noco92

By Noco92,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Noco92 Newbie

Noco92

Posted
Posted

I have began to remove my camshafts without first putting the engine to no.1 tdc . I removed the timing belt and when removing the vct gear the camshaft turned a small amount.

What is the possibility I have pushed a valve into a piston and damaged it?

I felt resistance that I am assuming is just compression but want to be certain I haven't damaged a valve..

Also now that the engine is out of time how am I to get it to no1 tdc without and valve/piston interference

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

You almost certainly haven't hurt it already if you were just turning it by hand, valves are pretty tough.

To put it back you just need to time it like always.....have the balancer and both cams on the 0 degree markings. If it was nowhere near the 0 marks when you took the belt off you made it hard for yourself, so turn both cams and the crank evenly and in small increments until you get to 0.

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

You don't want your cams on their timing marks/engine at TDC when removing or installing cams.

You should deliberately take the crank slightly passed TDC so all pistons are down the bores, check with a screw driver down the plug holes.

Then there's no chance of interference as cams do like to find their happy spot, and it's not exactly where their timing marks are.

(No 1 firing at TDC has No 6 changing over inlet/exhaust. If you're winding down cam caps and things move a touch, you can push those valves into the piston)

As Duncan posted, it's just a matter of turn and check to get things aligned again when fitting the belt.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Sorry I didn't pay enough attention to your first sentence :) If the cams are out you are fine.....just turn the crank to where you want it (on the timing marks, or as jiffo said just past if you want a margin of safety) the put the cams in and turn them to the same place. You wont have valves touch pistons until the cam caps are tightened down, until then the valve springs will hold every valve closed (up)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...