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Here's what's in the FC datalogit manual

E-3-1 Anti lag ☺ (AKA Stutter box, Launch box, Pro start and “Bang bang”) ^

• Spools up your turbo for a quick drag launch o Assuming you will use the standard clutch switch (+ arming switch) ? Cut clutch switch wires

? Connect one wire through an additional (arming) switch from the standard clutch switch to terminal “SW3” on the FC-Box {FC2 FC-Box 4 Switches} Questions? [email protected] 54

FC-Datalogit GTR32/33 DETT User Manual

• The additional switch is used to turn anti lag on and off (arm the system). Mount this within easy reach of your driving position

? Ground the other clutch switch wire

? Check the enable Anti lag Switch (SW3) “check box” to enable Anti lag

? Enter the amount of ignition retard you want in the “IGN Anti lag retard” text box

? Enter the amount of extra fuel you want in the “INJ Anti lag” text box

? Push the “Update” button on FC-Edit

? Turn the ignition key off and then back on

? Arm the system with the additional arming switch

? When the clutch is depressed the FC-Box will retard the ignition and add fuel to the values you have entered in the appropriate text boxes. RPMs will drop so you need to depress the accelerator to compensate. More boost will be created

? When the clutch is released the timing and fuel will return to normal

thaks maximajim,

but i thought "Antilag" which I believe Link ECU's have, is alittle different. I roughly remember reading how bad it is for the turbo life and exhausts.. I think the difference was "AntiLag" is activated straight from idle, where launch control & flat shift are induced by clutch switches, and "maybe - no expert here" are not as harmful as real "AntiLag"?

Say goodbye to your Cat converter and or motor

When you drop spark, raw fuel get's thrown through the exhaust, that pop that you hear when you get back on spark if the fuel igniting in the exhaust.....

When you drop power to your injectors, you drop fuel, big spike of detonation is possible as it leans out.  What if you miss a gear and have to clutch again......

Just a thought.

Yep, but the T-Sport one drops both at the same time. There is still some risk though. I am hoping someone else will give it crack and tell us it's all good :D

thaks maximajim,

but i thought "Antilag" which I believe Link ECU's have, is alittle different. I roughly remember reading how bad it is for the turbo life and exhausts.. I think the difference was "AntiLag" is activated straight from idle, where launch control & flat shift are induced by clutch switches, and "maybe - no expert here" are not as harmful as real "AntiLag"?

Another method of anti-lag hold back the spark until the exhaust stoke to explode through the turbo and out the exhuast. Certainly cat/O2 sensor frying risk there.

The original Anti-lag, ie, Rally bred, actually injected raw fuel into the exhaust housing and also had a spark plug in the exhaust. This kept the turbo spinning, but didn't effect the actual combustion in the engine.

The original Anti-lag, ie, Rally bred, actually injected raw fuel into the exhaust housing and also had a spark plug in the exhaust.  This kept the turbo spinning, but didn't effect the actual combustion in the engine.

Bj,

that sounds about right, from that thread I read from some US forum. I believe the car in question (need to find that mpeg) was a blue 01/02 WRX from Western Australia running a Link ECU with proper AntiLag (eg: from Idle.. the sounds ballastic). BUT, I don't want to confuse that sort of Anti Lag with Flat shifting, or maybe I'm just confusing myself.. :confused:

surely you could just have a switch on the clutch conected to the resistor pack that is only armed after say 50km/h (or maybe arm it only when the revs go above say 6000)

then it just cuts spark when you hit the clutch (might even works as anti lag with all the fuel flowing out the zorst)

im sure its not good for it but seems very simple to do

dont know why you would want it on a road car though

  • 4 months later...

Ok so out of interest, what real world performace gain is anyone getting out of this??? Because I sware if I nail a gear change I dont loss any boost, dont hear the bov go off car keeps going etc. Say if you were that worried about loosing the boost, dont have a BOV??? Wouldnt that basically do the same thing? Im just thinking out loud atm, so dont flame me, just correct me :(

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