Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1) LMGT 1

Spec:- 18x9.5" +14 Four Wheels

Colour:- White

Cost:- $1,950

Tyres:- None

Comments:- Good condition, even after two rims have been previously repaired on the inside edge by Wheel Repair Centre (formerly Simmons). Showing their age a little bit. New stickers are available should you wish to refurbish these. All caps are present.

LMGT1-3_zpsvvn2zpag.jpg

LMGT1-5_zpsrevwxuj7.jpg

LMGT1-7_zpslcmuh9ox.jpg

LMGT1-9_zpsfjllvzvj.jpg

2) LMGT 4

Spec:- 18x10.5" +15 Four Wheels

Colour:- Nismo Black

Cost:- $3,900

Tyres:- Kumho 36 40% even wear

Comments:- Very Good Condition, whilst one rim was repaired by MagMan last year on the inside edge. Powdercoat was matched to Nismo Black and contains a resin to make the coat more slippery (to dust).

After a certain amount of wear, KU36 tyres develop quite a bit of road noise. All caps are present.

Terry-26-1.jpg

2012GTR005.jpg

2012GTR006.jpg

3) LMGT 4 GT500 Ver05

Spec:- 18x9.5" +12 Four Wheels

Colour:- Nismo Black

Cost:- $3,200

Tyres:- Bridgestone Potenza RE01 65% even wear

Comments:- Perfect Condition. Powdercoat was matched to Nismo Black with a resin in the coat to make the wheel more slippery (to dust). The hexagonal cap is aftermarket, made by SAU Member PLYNX. The thin collars (held by two screws) that cover the stud holes are not present and are as scarce as hens' teeth.

Terry-291.jpg

Terry-292.jpg

Terry-293.jpg

* PM me or

** Text me on 04onesix214699

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458097-nismo-l-m-g-t-sale-in-n-s-w/
Share on other sites

I have a set of LMGT4 18x9.5 +12 if anyone is interested. Same price as above - with federal RSR about 70% left on them. Or swap for TE37RT - the red ones - with rubber.

Thanks Terry. And yes guys I asked for permission first before posting. [emoji4]

Any R32 that you're considering putting R34 GTR OEM wheels on, the White LMGT1 above will fill out your guards even more.

The R34 GTR OEM rim specs are 18x9" +30

The LMGT1 rim specs as stated in OP are 18x9.5" +14.

And the price of these LMGT1 rims are about the same.

I will accept Lay-by. So that'll match up with your tax return I think. Hope this helps!

UPDATE

2) LMGT4 18x10.5" +15

and KU36 Tyres

reserved for *h*o**

(2nd dibs **n)

3) LMGT4 18x9.5" +12

and RE01 Tyres

reserved for R*** B***n

(2nd dibs **n**)

(3rd dibs **n)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...