Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

THE ULTIMATE STREET GTR 10sec street car

FEATURE CAR IN HPI VOL46 CURRENT ISSUE IN STANDS NOW

NISMO LM WIDEBODY only 1 in Australia

built, tuned and maintained by one of the best tuners in the racing circuit here and overseas.

only done 14500 km after build.

Twin KKK Top Mount Turbos rated at 900hp

Blitz Manifold

Twin External Wastegates

88mm JE Racing Foged Pistons

Hks 280 Cam Shafts IN/OUT

JUN Cam Gears

Hks Drag Pro Valve Springs

Modified Headwork

Balanced Crank

Short Pin Rods

ARP Rod Bolts

Nismo Oil Pump

Nismo Water Pump

Nismo bearings

Custom Catch Can, Braided Hoses

Hks oill Cooler with remote filter

Os Giken Twin Palte Clutch

custom 4" stainless exhaust

Twin 3" Stainless Steel Exhaust system( as a spare)

55mm Tial Racing Blow Off Valve

120mm Blitz Intercoolerand cutom piping

Custom stainless induction, k&n filters

Motec Ecu

Twin Bocsh Racing Fuel Pumps

Custom Surge Tank, All Braided Lines

Custom Fuel Rail

900cc Injectors

Sard fully adjustable Fuel Regulator

ngk Iridium8 racing spark plugs

Motul 300v

Hks EVC5

Tein Coilovers

Nismo White Dash And Cluster

Recaro Drivers Seat

18x11 3 Piece Equipe Racing Wheels Allround 275x35x18 Falkens

Endless pads

Air Conditioning ( re mapped )

Full Alarm System

Sony Cd with remote.

power

500@4wheels@1bar on optimax no aditives EVERY DAY DRIVING

561hp@[email protected] on optimax no aditives EVERY DAY DRIVING

650hp@4wheels on race fuel. IF YOU REALLY WANT IT.

this is a seriously IMPRESSIVE and FAST CAR..

will run 10sec

ran 11.7@122mph on just 14psi soft launch. optimax in full street trim

only ever raced once. used everyday.

replacement cost over $100000

FOR SALE $75000

will consider trade.

will consider selling all performance mods as a full package inc motec ecu,clutch,intercooler in the lot, just put in your gtr and you will have a bargain.

$30000.00 plus your standard rb26 engine.

will also consider selling widebody without the mods and engine setup for $45000.00

so if you want a well built no expense spared supercar.

Genuine Ineterests Only Please. sms 0404134400

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45815-widebody-gtr33-800hp/
Share on other sites

You are going to get 1,000 posts asking for pics, just post them to save yourself the pain.

p.s. How much fuel pressure does it take to get 720cc injectors to pump out 800hp?

p.p.s BUMP :cheers:

You are going to get 1,000 posts asking for pics, just post them to save yourself the pain.

p.s. How much fuel pressure does it take to get 720cc injectors to pump out 800hp?

p.p.s BUMP :)

ALL PICTURES ARE IN HPI VOL 46 IN NEWS AGENTS NOW.

THANKS.

Hi there,

Are the cams 280 duration on both intake and exhaust and also what lift are they.

Can it make more HP on racefuel or you havent takin it that far yet.

280 cams on both sides.

not run on race fuel. this set up will make 600+ hp @4wheels easily. if you see the pictures and the article in hpi vol46 you will see what i mean.

280 cams on both sides.  

not run on race fuel. this set up will make 600+ hp @4wheels easily. if you see the pictures and the  article in hpi vol46 you will see what i mean.

ran the car on 1/4 for 1rst time, low boost run 14 psi @11.7@122mph

full tank fuel, street tyres, aircon.

look forward to a 10 sec 1/4 next test an tune.

lol sorry i forgot all about this topic.I have a few more questions for you.

1)Hows this thing on the street with those size cams are the ok or are they bordering ridiculous???

2)Does it run hot with cams that size as ive been told something with that size duration cams always run really hot.

4)What size lift are the cams?? are they the 10.? lift ones or the 11.? lift ones.

5)Whats the usuable rev range on these cams for both street and track.

6)Whats the compression ratio of the engine I can gather your running some high comp ratio...say 9-9.5 to 1.

7)What exact Motec does it have and do you have any under bonnet pics.

Thanks.

FOR SALE FEATURE CAR IN HPI VOL46 CURRENT ISSUE IN STANDS NOW

Car Specifications JGTC STYLE WIDEBODY WHITE WITH RED PEARL

800 horsepower GTR

450hp@4wheels@1bar optimax

520hp@[email protected] optimax

The car is tuned to 2bar of boost.

Redline 9000RPM

Twinn KKK K26 Blitz Top Mount Turbos

Blitz Manifold

Twinn External Wastegates

88mm JE Racing Foged Pistons

Hks 280 Cam Shafts

Hks Cam Gears

Hks Drag Pro Valve Springs

Modified Headwork

Balanced Crank

Short Pin Rods

ARP Rod Bolts

Nismo Oil Pump

Nismo Water Pump

Custom Catch Can, Braided Hose

Hks oill Cooler with remote filter

Os Giken Twin Palte Clutch

Twin 3" Stainless Steel Exhaust

55mm Tial Racing Blow Off Valve

120mm Blitz Intercooler

All custom piping

Custom stainless induction, k&n filters

Motec Ecu

Twin Bocsh Racing Fuel Pumps

Custom Surge Tank, All Braided Lines

Custom Fuel Rail

720cc Injectors

Sard Fuel Regulator

Hks EVCiv

Tein Coilovers

Nismo White Dash And Cluster

Recaro Drivers Seat

18x11 3 Piece Equipe Racing Wheels Allround 275x35x18 Falkens

Endless pads

Air Conditioning  

Full Alarm Sysytem

Sony Cd  

OFEERS OVER $85000

Family Situation Forces Sale

Genuine Ineterests Only Please. ph 0404134400

these turbos were on my built 2.7 previously and made 652hp@the wheels at 1.5 bar, with 103 octane fuel.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...