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Need Advise On Speed Sensors

jzs31man
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jzs31man Rookie

jzs31man

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Posted

Hi, I've got a r31 with a z31 gearbox in it (the big daddy) it has a cable driven speed sender

and I need to run an Hall effect sensor, i got one from a r33 (I was told it came from a 33

to replace the cable driven one, now the body's are the same but the r33 sender cog is bigger

then the z31 sender cog and the cogs are different so can't just swap around, I'm also running

4:11 diff ratio what cog do I need or what sensor do not need and are there different cogs for different

diff ratios, any help would be much appreciated thanks

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GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

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Posted

I can't help with the specifics of the Z31 box, but the related transplant is R33 box into R32. You use the Navara speedo mod to make the sender for that transplant. That mod is actually to provide a cable drive out of the R33 box (hence the Navara sender), so it is kind of the opposite of what you're asking for. I mention it because if you google around on the subject you might find info about the various cogs you're asking about in various people's publications on the topic.

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      100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
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      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
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      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
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