Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Drove the 32 over 600km to visit my parents and 15km from their house halfway up a mountain pass it starts making a ticking/metallic banging sound from the gearbox/clutch area. I wasn't up it at all because there are massive log trucks that come around the corners on the wrong side of the road.

The noise stops when the car does and revving it while stationary does not make the noise. While rolling if I push the clutch pedal in I can feel it through the pedal, the sound doesn't stop though. Happens in all gears and any speed. Does get faster as you go faster.

It had a brand new nismo twin plate professionally installed about 3000km ago and I've really only gone on sunday drives since then, no thrashing. Being the only thing I haven't had to fix yet the box is a bit tired, worn synchros etc, I knew it would be the next thing to give me issues, so I'm not devastated or surprised.

I'd just like to know what it is before I take it back down the mountain to the mechanic we use in case it's something horrific and I shouldn't even limp it there.

Thanks guys, Tez

I hope there is oil in the box, since I paid for it to be replaced when I did the clutch. I'll have to take it around the block again and check for the noise in neutral, I can't remember 100% if it did or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...