Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Interested in a Drivers side Seat Rail for gtr r32??.... I have a sparco Ultra seat will it sit at the same height i got one made up but no one else can sit in it besides me,,,Anyone taller there head hits the roof...

That wont be happening right???

Cheers

Price would be good though

ok rails just arrived and they look the goods. Just to clarify this is the whole frame and rails which will bolt to the floor plan and seems to be only for r31,r32,r33 not r34, as thats whats on the bride label.

I will try sneek out of work early today so i can take rails to fabrication shop and get them to price the drivers side up for me.

Getting my rails trial fitted to my car tomorrow so we know they will fit exactly.

Price looks to be around the $250 for the drivers side (Still to confirm). This is the whole assembly not just the rails.

bride%20seat%20rail.jpg

So confirm who would be interested for $250 for drivers side. If not many i wont bother getting em done, and will just put em in my car and be done with it.

R34 is different to the rest of the R series bolt ups for the seat rails.

I require a Bride Rail for the Drivers Side for R32/A31

Are you saying its $250 for a COPY of the bride rail? A Bride rail is $160 from a local online shop. How much did you pay for yours, and was it new or s/h?

JK

R34 is different to the rest of the R series bolt ups for the seat rails.

I require a Bride Rail for the Drivers Side for R32/A31

Are you saying its $250 for a COPY of the bride rail? A Bride rail is $160 from a local online shop. How much did you pay for yours, and was it new or s/h?

JK

If you can find 15 bride rails for a r31/r32/r33 please go ahead and take over my group buy!! But the simple fact is that there aint that many around.

So if anyone is interested left me know ASAP otherwise i will just forget about it and just get my seats finially installed today.

Update

Trial fitted the rails to the car and seat and the rials fit in perectly and sit the seat straight and at the exact right height. You may need to modify the bolt location slightly depending on ur seat tho.

So place ur interest if you want the drivers side or both.

I am getting 2 sets made up driver and passenger side for 2 friends next week, so if anyone wants some let me know so i can get em made in the same batch, or even after that as the jigs have already been setup for em

i got all excited about these, then realised they will only work with reclinable seat not fixed bucket :D

oh well i'll have to keep looking!

I dont see why they wouldnt work with a fixed back seat as the fixed back has nothing to do with the rails or how the seat bolts to the rails.

Most fixed back seats use side mounts, perhaps that is what he means.

With bolting side mounts onto a bottom mount rail you get the problem of jacking the seat up.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...