Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Wondering what are my options in terms of fitting a rear bar/pods

Was wanting to get the rear a bit lower(and also hide a ding in the lower rear quarter) so was either thinking to go for pods - or get an M spec rear bar

What is the go with the pods? Which ones will fit the R33 sedan? How much do they cost and where would i be able to source some?

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459154-r33-sedan-rear-barpods/
Share on other sites

To be honest, you don't have much choice. You either go custom or you go with the "GTR Style" pods from Carmate. I haven't used Carmate before so I cannot comment on quality however, from past discussions, they aren't the best quality as fitment can be an issue.

If you want a really nice half kit and don't mind spending the money, purchase an East Bear Front Bar, Bonnet, Rear Wing and Badges. It'll cost you a pretty penny and you will have to purchase it through the East Bear jap site. I think for the R33 GTST 4 Dr Series 2 Front Bar, Rear Wing and Badges cost just over $2,400 unpainted and not including shipping. The fitment and quality is basically perfect.

EDIT: If you don't read japanese, use translate (google). You can just make out what the options are for the configurators. For example, the Front bar has options such as Painted (Factory Codes) or Unpainted, Series 1 or Series 2, Vents included or not (I assume these are the back plates for the indicators) and Crystal Indicators included or not. The Rear Wing has a variation of painting options as well as an option to have the center piece in Carbon Fibre. With the Badges, you have 2 models of Badges, the model 1 is the best looking in my opinion. As far as the Bonnet goes, it is the same as the Front Bar but you have options for Vent Covers instead.

EDIT 2: The other option is to purchase through Nengun (Custom enquiry as the online store doesn't show all the products.). C-Red in Australia used to supply them however they do not anymore.

Edited by ZiAzon

Thanks man, i see you have a sedan too - Have you gone with a body kit also?

I was considering it but i already have a M-spec front bar so would only need skirts and pods, was hoping to delete the spoiler too. I keep seeing photos popping around with sedans with the pods but can't find a supplier lol

Appreciate the reply

Nah, I've kept with stock. Had to replace the Series II front bar with a Series I as I had a crash. But once all my engine and suspension upgrades are completed, I'll be purchasing the East Bear kit and doing a full respray.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Unless someone sells something they've had custom made I don't think you'll find anything as I've been looking for quite a while as well!

I've got the coupe rear pods that I'll be extending so that they fit my sedan...it's either custom or nothing at all it seems

Am I right in assuming that you're already running coilovers and have dropped the rear substantially? My R34 sedan was sky high with stock suspension, the rear still feels a touch high with stock body kit but it's a lot more tolerable with a 35mm drop :)

  • 3 months later...

Yep coils and dropped a reasonable amount, since this thread was made i ended up fixing the dent on the rear quarter and decided to run with original bar and without rear pods.

Would still be interested in a pair of rear pods though if it does pop up though. Seem to be hard to find!

  • 2 weeks later...

Dude - I think you are a very lucky punter. I have a set of rear pods for an R33 4 door. They are very very rare and I got them when I was living in the UK over 6 years ago. I will try to post some pics tomorrow. If you are interested you can PM me.... Cheers

If you choose to install rear pods on your back bar - make sure you get the corner put on real tight and filled if possible - some cheap copies don't fit well and have gaps - makes it look cheap as flimsy !

@Lifted

I agree to an extent, i would rather the M Type ones over the GTR styled ones purely because it looks more cleaner and a touch more classier. I'm running 350/340 ride height on R33 GTR wheels so i think a GTR style would be over the top, if i was running more low and super dished 18" wheels however i think it would suit for sure

@Wooa

Thanks, already have a pair of genuine ones, i guess i forgot to mention that they are in fact for the 4 door - and getting painted as we speak :D I'm sure if you posted it for sale on here or facebook pages you'll get interest

@Robocop

I don't think i'll have any problems with fitment Robocop considering they are genuine, but noted on filling them

Edited by ajdinp
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...