Jump to content
SAU Community

Info for GTT Tiptronic owners.

Abo Bob

By Abo Bob,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

I've just got a modified standard ECU put in my car.

I've been umming and ahhing about the Greddy emanage and other things but the opportunity to put this in just came up so I went for it.

It's got the limiters taken off it and I dunno what else. Details are a bit sketchy. So far I have noticed that the power delivery is so much smoother than before. I think it's because before the standard ECU was constantly making corrections due to the higher boost.

I would say that the seatofthepants-o-meter is registering a 10-15 kw gain which isn't a lot but the new smoothness means that it feels, and should be, faster. When you floor it in 2nd (or any other gear for that matter but I want to keep my license) you are not sitting at peak power the whole time. By getting rid of the tiny little hesitations as the standard ECU corrected and re-corrected it gets to redline faster. I've hit the rev limiter in 1st gear twice now by accident which I normally never do. (bad me)

So boost cut is gone, speed cut is gone (yay for the Eastern Creek straight) and it only took about half an hour to learn my driving habits and give the extra power over.

Beauty is that the Nissan consult can still be plugged into it and the trannie has no issues whatsoever. I presume I'm going to blow up my diff now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45928-info-for-gtt-tiptronic-owners/
Share on other sites
hunter1234 Newbie

hunter1234

Posted
Posted

Abo Bob,

you legend, I have been doing lots of research and I couldn't get a straight answer on whether or not it would really work, it seemed the only other option is a SAFC2 which seems outdated now.

What other mods do you have, what boost were you and are you running now?

I have FMIC, 3" exhaust and dump pipe, pod filter, boost at just under 1 bar (14/15psi). I am getting a bit over 150rwkw which seems low due to mods but I seem to be running very rich, I am told that the emanage (excluding ignition harness which I am told won't work on the autos) should give 30-40rwkw if I run 17/18psi when the boost cut is changed? What are your thoughts? Do the R34 turbo's cope with this amount of boost? or does the nylon wheel melt?

Also, as AFRO asked, what did it set you back, and where did you get it done.

Cheers

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cost me a grand as an exchange from Powerplay but it's a bit of a one off at the moment. Give them a call in a few weeks or about a month and mention my car (they know it).

Hunter - That does seem low. I had 162 with less boost. I have Nismo panel filter, CES split dump/front pipe, 3" cat, Fujitsubo cat back which is fairly quiet and an AVC-R for boost.

Just went out for a blat and turned the boost up to 1 bar just to see. Seemed to cope fine although the turbo seemed to be surging a little. I think that's because I don't know how to adjust the boost duty cycle on the AVC-R.

If you consistantly run 1 bar something in your turbo will let go so I'd stick to 0.85 if I were you.

AFRO Rising Star

AFRO

Posted
Posted

ok,, umm i dunno if this is meant to be correct or not,,

but i got mine dynoed ,, and i was getting 177rwkw, and mine is stock!

except exhaust,,,, standard boost and all,, even down to the factory air filter,,

but it was running a bit crap lately and ecu has error's 17 & 46,, might get it dynoed again,, to make sure everything is running ok,,

it was dynoed in shootout mode,,

edit:- mine is manual,,

AFRO

hunter1234 Newbie

hunter1234

Posted
Posted

Abo Bob,

Did you get all the harnesses put in, ie ignition etc... or just the fuel component? I am still considering getting the whole emanage kit and I am assured by Advan (the Trust distributor) that all the components work with the 34 auto and the coil frying problem has been addressed with the latest sw revision.

Now that you have been running with it for a little while is it still running well, is the auto box coping ok? Feeling any faster? I am told one would expect around 40-50 rwkw, what do you think?

Cheers

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't have the emanage. Advan need to get their story straight. I've been told by one of them there that it will work fine but that you can't use the ignition harness and by another that he "doesn't recommend putting it in there at all."

I have a modified standard ecu.

So far I would say that I'm a little concerned about the auto's power handling abilities. The flaring that I used to get between 1st and 2nd gear when cold only now seems to need to more warming up to work properly. If I redline it however, it drops timing or something, does a little fart out the back and kicks into 2nd beautifully.

I'm going to look into changing my fluid.

666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

Good to hear there is something else out there....the second I get another e-manage ignition harness though I'll put the diodes in and give you guys the details....hoping to get a harness next week...unless one of you guys has one laying around you could sell to me?

Yeah the flaring is easily sorted by a good warm-up....once the car hits temp you don't ever get it.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Good to hear there is something else out there....the second I get another e-manage ignition harness though I'll put the diodes in and give you guys the details....hoping to get a harness next week...unless one of you guys has one laying around you could sell to me?

Yeah the flaring is easily sorted by a good warm-up....once the car hits temp you don't ever get it.

There are 2 problems with the EManage in autos, the first is the coil frying problem, but that happens to manuals as well. The real problem is it removes the ECU control over ignition on gearchanges, this means you end up with very jerky gearchanges. Plus, with no power cut, the gearbox will wear much faster. Simplkistically this is because the EManage has no gearshift logic.

I believe there may be a cure for problem #1, but I don't see anyway for problem #2 to be overcome with the current logic.

So I am looking forward to your results. :D

Fly_With_Sky Rising Star

Fly_With_Sky

Posted
Posted

how did they do it abo bob? modified standard ecu for skylines. thought that was impossible as no one worked out how to do it properly or am i thinking of r33 gtst when it comes to chipping the ecu?? SydneyKid, help.

if not looks like il be having a chat to powerplay in the not to distant future...

ed Grand Master

ed

Posted
Posted
how did they do it abo bob? modified standard ecu for skylines. thought that was impossible as no one worked out how to do it properly or am i thinking of r33 gtst when it comes to chipping the ecu?? SydneyKid, help.

if not looks like il be having a chat to powerplay in the not to distant future...

probably a daughterboard.

the japs have been doing it for ages for the 34.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
probably a daughterboard.

the japs have been doing it for ages for the 34.

yeah the ecu requires a new chip, the in the 32s you can just download to the existing eprom but the 33 and 34s require a seperate chip.

  • 3 weeks later...
Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I just did a dyno run to find out the following:

1. 189.4 rwkw at 0.8 bar which is up from 162 rwkw at 0.85 bar before the ECU.

2. I'm not sure how to read air fuel ratios. It's between 10.9 and 11.65. Which is leaner?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...