Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Folks,

I have recently upgraded my RB20 with an he341 holset and manifold w/ external waste gate. I am running an 8lb spring at 9psi and am about two psi points away from un-safe AFR's.

There for I have bought an RB26 nistune ECU, GTR Injectors & Resistor ballast. I know the Series 2 boards are the same but I am assuming the ecu's are far different.

I do have an RB20 ecu that is slotted for chips, are the Nistune Ecu's slotted?. Would it be matter of removing the nistune bits and putting them in the rb20 ecu?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Rx-

There is actually very little difference between an RB26 ECU and an RB20 ECU. They are basically the same thing. But the differences do make work for you that you probably don't need. Those are that the 26 ECU expects 2x AFM signals, so you have to duplex the single AFM into both inputs. And then you have to fiddle with VQ maps and shit to make it go.

Yes, Nistune installation requires desoldering the EEPROM and soldering in a socket. So if you have one, then it is merely a matter of moving the Nistune board over and breaking the jumper pad to convert it. You should go get the Nistune installation instruction manual from their site.

Thanks man,

I got the RB26 injectors and Ecu with nistune in the car. I keep uploading the rb20 basemap to the ecu and everything is fine until the key turns off and then it wants to load the RB26 feature pack.

We can change items on the rb20 map like fueling by looking at wideband.

I am getting a code for intake AIT. the car will only rev to 2700 and does this sort of soft limiter bup bup bup..

Any ideas? new to nistune.

And there is no IAT sensor on an RB20 so you will need to go into the flags and mask out the code for it.

And, don't go trying to load the RB20 maps into the RB26 ECU. You can't. You need to use a Nistune programmer to get rid of the RB26 stuff and replace it with the RB20 stuff. Then inside Nistune you use an RB20 address file to work with the ROM. As you won't have the programmer, you are going to be using it as an RB26 ECU to run RB20.

If it were me, I would not bugger around. Move the board over to an RB20 ECU. Note though that you will now definitely need to get it reprogrammed!!!!

I fixed the above problem by adding a piggyback wire from pin 27 to 35 i believe, Runs like it has some major injector pulse problems. Sounds like a Subaru to be honest.

I will have someone move the board over and re-program here in Canada. I am sure there would be more gremlins than what i am experiencing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...