Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guy's

Need some help? Motor only has 4xxxkm on it but recently when starting after about 3min idling it starts and starts to get warm it's blowing smoke (smells like Oil).

Smoke completely goes once i start driving.. any idea what it could be, valve stem seal??

Car is running on E85

Jayson

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459923-smoke-issue-when-cold-need-help/
Share on other sites

Sounds like seals.....or what oil are you using?

Oil being pumped up to head but too thick to drain back down until it is warmed up - so its flooding the head.

Another one is go for a drive and find a good sized hill, coast down and take your foot off the go pedal and let the motor suck up oil. When you accelerate away at the bottom is it clear or do you see a smoke plume. A smoke plume [when the motor is warm] indicates rings and/or guides.

There are many types of smoke.

Black smoke is rich.

Blue smoke is oil.

White steam is water evaporating from inside the exhaust when its warming up.

What color is it? (not smell)

Id say its black and running rich while in the warm up circuit.

Stem seals will smoke blue for a few seconds till it gets burned up if its the stem seals.....

E85 attracts a ton of water so cars running E85 tend to have a lot of condensatin, or possibly called "white smoke" coming out the exhaust when idling. Are you sure its not just a lot of condensation mixed in with normal car smells?

Edited by sonicz

E85 attracts a ton of water so cars running E85 tend to have a lot of condensatin, or possibly called "white smoke" coming out the exhaust when idling. Are you sure its not just a lot of condensation mixed in with normal car smells?

Maybe his E85 has absorbed a shit load of water in the tank and running as a steam engine. :P

  • Like 2

when starting after about 3min idling

Bad skyline owner. Bad! No!!! *hits nose with newspaper*

idling a cold engine causes additional wear, when idling so little heat is being produced it takes the engine ages to warm up. The more time spent "running cold" the more wear and blowby is happening.

start it, let it idle for 10 seconds to get oil pressure and then drive it gently (light throttle) staying under half redline (3500rpm).

hmmm, if it takes 10 seconds to get oil pressure then im sure you will know about it in less than that.

I agree that whith idling extensively is no good, but are you trying to say that oil doesnt do anything until up to operating temp?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...