Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I noticed one thing, you have a SARD FPR... those things aren't that good.

I replaced my SARD FPR with a Turbosmart 1200 FPR and AFRs were more steady on WOT and also my fuel map could be smoothed out

So word from tuner is pump will be fine going to see if he can get some good midrange gains and whatever it makes up top will be conservative hoping for 30-40 kw from 3800 up and maybe peak of 360

Postponed till Tuesday Wednesday .

My running issue was a hole in my intercooler wonder why it was bit laggy lol

so purchasing a cooling pro intercooler for now,

They also managed to rewire my fuel pumps to get me 13.3V at the pumps.

Only changes were a colling pro intercooler instead of greddy one and type r exhaust not a straight through.

Fpr also started play up and injectors almost out

Only changes were a colling pro intercooler instead of greddy one and type r exhaust not a straight through.

Fpr also started play up and injectors almost out

:)

didn't I say the SARD FPR isn't that good?

I doubt the injectors are nearly out.. it's because your fuel pressure is all over the shop up top. I found that when I changed my FPR I ended up with richer mixtures and needed to fix up my VE table.

Yes yes you did bit dissapointing from a genuine jap item. Will replace as soon as i have cash.They offerrd to clean the tune up ounce i fit a new one up.

Not almost but getting on the higer end but plenty left in them for now.

General appearance is that you've picked up 30-40kW from 3000-7400 using marginally less boost. But the peak power number is roughly similar despite the gain right through the range.

How is it that the boost curve comes on at lower rpm?

The power throught the curve is so very noticable as is the added response i cant answer how it come on earlier but its certianly noticable.

The peak power is about the same but how often do u rev above 7200 . Beleive its the same due to exhaust restriction and it has very little timing as my motor has god oddly low but even comp so wanted to stay conservative

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...