Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Afternoon GTR World

Just wondering if anyone has put a 2jz in a r32, I am in the middle of my swap & I am just stuck at wiring stage. Any one have any tips on the r32 body harness to Engine Harness.

I plan to pin the harness out and match it with the 2jz ECU, or am I wrong

Any help is appreciated.

Please dont ask or make comments about why I am putting a 2jz in a R32, or the comment will be deleted.

__________________
user_online.gifreport.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461474-2jz-to-r32-wiring-help/
Share on other sites

This might save you some hassle, this guy does mail order engine conversion harnesses, send him the 2 harnesses and he'll send you back one to install into your car. A mate used him, did a great job and wasn't expensive:

http://www.sideshows.net.au/

This might save you some hassle, this guy does mail order engine conversion harnesses, send him the 2 harnesses and he'll send you back one to install into your car. A mate used him, did a great job and wasn't expensive:

http://www.sideshows.net.au/

i will look in to this, i am on ontario canada so the distance may be a bit of issue

Access to the JZ series is much easier in his area than RBs.

R32 chassis will be a rocket with a 2JZ

True. Is this going to be a track weapon, or are you getting it engineered and on the road?

Either way, I would look forward to a build thread with some pics. :yes:

2JZ is far superior engineered in many many ways. (over-engineered)

Anyone here looked inside of one?

Seen the size of the factory oil pickup, the pump, the oil returns, block strength etc etc.....then looked in a RB and been really seriously disappointed?

  • Like 1

2JZ is far superior engineered in many many ways. (over-engineered)

Anyone here looked inside of one?

Seen the size of the factory oil pickup, the pump, the oil returns, block strength etc etc.....then looked in a RB and been really seriously disappointed?

Aren't the factory blocks considered bulletproof? Also, have you seen the shitty factory crank pulleys on a 2JZ? Falls apart somewhat easily. But yes, the 2JZ is way over-engineered compared to an RB engine. Can see where the OP is going with this now.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

True. Is this going to be a track weapon, or are you getting it engineered and on the road?

Either way, I would look forward to a build thread with some pics. :yes:

This is for mostly street use, ya once I get my adaptors made and flywheel I will be posting some pictures.

This depends on which 2jz (vvti or non-vvti) wiring loom you have. The 2j loom only needs a handful of wires to make it run. From memory theres maybe 3 wires that need to run to ignition, one constant 12v, and you need to run a new relay for the m-rel which needs constant power and three of the wires out of the body plug. The fuel pump trigger is the hardest as the toyotas run a fuel pump ecu. Using a tachometric relay is the safest way around this.

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/37092272/Wiki%20-%20wilbo666 is the best page for 2jz diagrams. Make sure you read and understand the m-rel page otherwise you will always have idle issues!!! Good luck and please make a build thread :)

Edited by k_d
  • 5 weeks later...

This depends on which 2jz (vvti or non-vvti) wiring loom you have. The 2j loom only needs a handful of wires to make it run. From memory theres maybe 3 wires that need to run to ignition, one constant 12v, and you need to run a new relay for the m-rel which needs constant power and three of the wires out of the body plug. The fuel pump trigger is the hardest as the toyotas run a fuel pump ecu. Using a tachometric relay is the safest way around this.

http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/37092272/Wiki%20-%20wilbo666 is the best page for 2jz diagrams. Make sure you read and understand the m-rel page otherwise you will always have idle issues!!! Good luck and please make a build thread :)

Hey Thanks for this, ive been reading it like mad, I have a 2jz-gte vvit loom.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...