Bosch Ev14 1000cc Injectors Latency Time And Powerfc Settings

[mr skidz]

Wideband is cheap as too, great tool to have. Good ones are around 230 last time I checked

[No Crust Racing]

Car is getting a wide band kit as part of the Haltech install.

As I said, this was only to see if I could get it driveable to the tuner, if not, tow truck it is.

[mr skidz]

Yeah didn't think it wouldn't case any damage.

Other than if I went out and WOT the car and leaned it out.

if you're going to drive the car in this unknown state of tune make sure at least you're O2 feed back function is switched on under very very light throttle it will at least be looking for 14.7/ 1 regardless of your tune.

Just don't put load on it.

Edited December 7, 2015 by mr skidz

[mr skidz]

I'll be putting my injectors in but I'll be towing for the sake of $120 not worth risking a brand new motor for me

[No Crust Racing]

Not sure how to do that in PowerFC, I barely have to go 25ks, but as that includes a highway stint I'll just trailer it.

[mr skidz]

You have to learn Japanese first

[mr skidz]

It's in the menu feature I can't recall where it is but it says a o2/FB and then some Kanji symbols you need to learn which one is on and off last time I played with it was 10 years ago so I'm a bit vague

[No Crust Racing]

Or I can just borrow my neighbours trailer

[mr skidz]

Yes do that

[No Crust Racing]

Did this last night, I opted to sacrifice the resistor pack side of the loom to leave the ECU side in tact so this is reversible if needed.

I am a shit solderer, a mate told me more heat into the wires would help the solder penetrate better. That said I tested the wires before twisting and after soldering for continuity. The soldered section is also heat shrink wrapped under the tape. The whole thing is hidden under the fuse box now and cable tied to stay still.

Scaled injectors down to 48% and took a guess at latency (added .35 or so). Car started, and rev'd much more cleanly, no hunting. Still a bit rich though.

I also found feedback loop control in the PFC and turned that on, on was easy to tell as the warnings were all set to a specific symbol, knock, injector etc, but the boost control kit was set to a different symbol.

Edited December 7, 2015 by ActionDan

[burn4005]

there was a lot of mis information here..

and a note, if you solder each wire individually before you join them all you will get much better heat penetration.

basically running high-Z injectors with the ballast meant that your injector circuit impedance was higher. this was extending the dead time of the injectors as your injector coil current was lower so they take longer to open before fuel delivery actually begins. without correcting for this, your effective fuel delivery pulse would have been shorter, and at idle pulse widths (~1.5-2ms) may not have opened at all.

re wiring fuel pump shouldn't affect anything as long as your regulator is large enough to bypass the entire fuel pump flow. it just maintains your base pressure regardless of flow.

if you get your injector scaling % and dead times correct it should run perfectly. the 1000cc aren't too bad as far as low pulse width flow linearity so if you are only driving to the tuners like a grandma, bugger all Throttle and staying away from any positive pressure and only low revs you can have it as lean as it will run happily. if it hunts around just richen it up a bit by reducing the scaling value. the narrowband Voltage/reading should give you enough information at cruise conditions to know when you're in the ballpark (more than 0.6 or so volts).

a good way (if it starts) is to let it get to a stable idle (post start enrichments over), then raise the scaling value until it hunts or your narrowband value drops below 0.2V (you'll be around 15-16 afr) ... then go in the other direction until it gets a bit rough. you'll be around 10/11.. split the difference, that'll be good enough. you'll have no load on the engine while you do this, and it wont take long at all. so you won't damage anything.

if it's a new engine with new piston rings i would be much more careful, as your bed in procedures require good AFRs so I wouldn't take the risk.

you need to know what the flow and dead time details for the injectors you have just replaced are so you can make the corrections.

Apexi Docs:

• 
  If changing 440[cc/min] to aftermarket 600[cc/min]
  440 / 600 = 0.73
  Enter the value "0.73" for each cylinder.
  
  Bolt-on turbo spec. POWER FC applications assume that the injectors have been upgraded. This is why "1.000" is not entered as the starting data for the injector values.
  
  Injector Lag Time Setting
  
  The POWER FC includes factory vehicle injector data. If you switch to any other type of injector, be sure to perform the calculations below and input the correct values.
  
  Changing the factory 440[cc/min] with 0.78[msec] injector lag time to an aftermarket 600[cc/min] injector with 0.85[msec] injector lag time is:
  
  "Injectors to be used" - "Factory Injectors" = "Correction Value After Changing"
  
  0.85[msec] - 0.78[msec] = 0.07[msec]
  
  Enter "0.07" into the [msec] parameter for each cylinder.
  
  *If the aftermarket injectors have a shorter lag time, add a "-" (minus) before the value.

Factory injectors are 440cc @ .772ms.

for your reference:

Bosch 1000cc ev14 deadtimes @ 43.5psi:

8v 2.35ms

10v 1.72ms

12v 1.22ms

14v 0.86ms

16 0.68ms

Edited December 12, 2015 by burn4005

[No Crust Racing]

How can I easily know what latency to use. I'm not sure what voltage and fuel pressure it has at idle.

I aimed for around 1ms.

[No Crust Racing]

Bumped the latency modifier for a total of around 1.2ms total.

After letting the water and oil temps come up, one oxygen sensor showed .78v the other showed .28v despite all injectors being set the same.