Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm parting out an R32 GTST race car. I've got a few other parts let me know if you need anything else.

1) R32 bolt in six point roll cage, built by Independent Race Cars. CAMS compliant $700

DSC_0035%20Copy.jpg

DSC_0036%20Copy.jpg

2) R32 stainless steel exhaust, 2.5 inch with "cat" custom made $300

DSC_0039%20Copy.jpg

3) R32 Turbosmart Kompact BOV, new $100

DSC_0002%20Copy.jpg

4) R32 GTR wheels x 6 reasonable condition a few chips but no rash $500 for the grey set of 4 $250 for the green set of 2 No tyres

DSC_0006%20Copy.jpgDSC_0008%20Copy.jpg

5) 205/55/16 RE55 semi slicks x 6 $70 each 75-80% tread

6) TFN brand R33 GTR rotors slotted, brand new $120

DSC_0013%20Copy_1.jpg

7) R32 HICAS lock bar $40

8) Cobra Imola S race seats x2 good condition and very comfortable $650

DSC_0010%20Copy.jpg
DSC_0011%20Copy.jpg
DSC_0012%20Copy.jpg
Blitz SE return flow cooler, pipes, clamps and joiners $300
Heaps of Tilton, Quatermaster and AP racing clutches in 26 spline, PM if you are interested.
DSC_0030%20Copy.jpg
DSC_0027%20Copy.jpg
DSC_0021%20Copy.jpg
DSC_0014%20Copy.jpg
Direct clutch twin plate (200mm) to suit SR20 with flywheel. Newly serviced with new drive plates $1000
Motec UTC $100
Motec to R32 patch loom $200
RB20 and S1 RB25 yellow jacket coils $150
R32 GK-Tech cooling plate $20
R32 GTR front calipers and near new slotted RDA rotors $250
Edited by Komdotkom

ill take cooling plate if your will to post at my cost on top of asking price?

i am after radiator shroud, stock or lowed springs with or with out shocks,and a stock steering.

Edited by mr turbo
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...