Jump to content
SAU Community

Your Assistance Required - I Got Scammed Out Of $1500

murrayis

By murrayis,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
Posted

Unfortunately the time has come to ask for the groups help! On Christmas Eve I purchased a Haltech PS 2000 off a fella on Ebay after the auction had finished via the ebay contact seller feature.


Everything looked legit and paid as you would etc. etc. Now it hasn't turned up and he's telling me that he cannot find the express tracking details.


I understand the Aus Post is under the pump so it may be delayed however Aus Post said it should have been here by now.


I'm curious to know if anyone is from Tamworth or surrounding area who would know a LINDSAY GLOVER or wife KIERRA MOYO.


Just wanting to make sure all is legit etc. as I'd rather the item and not the money however before I lodge an investigation with the Bank I thought I'd put it out there.


Digging deeper into his ebay history it seems like he sold this item last year and got positive feedback for the item


This was the listing: Ebay


post-23119-0-09982600-1452069973_thumb.png post-23119-0-56014600-1452069973_thumb.png post-23119-0-97462600-1452069973_thumb.png post-23119-0-49517600-1452069974_thumb.png post-23119-0-98563300-1452069974_thumb.png post-23119-0-51401100-1452069975_thumb.png post-23119-0-98238500-1452069975_thumb.png


TIA.


V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

That sucks man.

I was talking to a mate the other day who got scammed out of $800 buying an iPhone 6S off eBay around Christmas (too good to be true and all that...)

Anyway he too had some issues with the tracking numbers, apparently the one he was given was for an item delivered back in 2014. He contacted both PayPal and his bank to lodge complaints and got it all sorted pretty quickly.

Hope it works out for you.

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yea Ebay said because the transaction was done after the auction and just via the contact seller they do not cover it. The bank said because it wasn't done via a merchant transaction they cannot reverse the funds if they have already been withdrawn which they have.

I have lodged a fraud/scam report with ACORN so lets see what if anything they say.

GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

So to clear this up, you didnt actually buy it through a ebay listing by clicking buy it now, you found him through ebay and purchased it outside of their system?

How did you pay for it, paypal or direct deposit? If paypal you still have them to support you.

Did he send it registered (OK hes looking for the tracking or so he says) but did he send it insured? If so tell him to claim and pay you back.

If you bought it outside of ebay and paid direct bank deposit, well its just like buying something from gumtree, you never buy anything from there unless you can go in person to pick it up.

Your next port of call should be the police station.....and if i was you, id let him know about it.....

murrayis Mentor

murrayis

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Correct - I was watching the item however due to christmas forgot about it and messaged him through ebay and arranged the deal as many people to to bargin on the price. Payment was made via a Direct bank transfer as he was with the same bank.

Yes I know stupid an all however it was Christmas eve blah blah blah

Cops have been notified so we'll see what their reply is.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Expensive lesson to learn - I really hope you get your money back or that the item turns up, but honestly: sending money via direct transfer to someone you don't know is like leaving money on your doorstep all day and expecting it to be there when you get back home. Most of the time it will be, but there are thieving fking scum out there waiting to take advantage of you. Pay for everything with paypal (who doesn't have one these days) and offer to cover fees for seller; if they still refuse then you have to ask yourself why they would do this if they were legit.

The problem is buyers get too keen on getting the car parts they want and when they finally pop up for a good price they rush into it. Have to take the emotion out of the situation and look at he big picture - handing over money to a complete stranger.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • hardsteppa
      Hi everyone.

      By hardsteppa · Posted

      Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...