Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I presume the OP has it all together by now but for reference, 20 to 30 mm won't be a misaligned clutch spline, the clutch shaft will be through the plates by then.

That dimension is usually a burred over spigot bearing from excessive crooked forcing of the box while not quite lined up.

Another more dreadful scenario is an incorrectly setup throw out assembly, but this can be checked via the throw out lever slot in the bell housing.

Its literally 20mm to the block now and the dam thing wont go in.. i try wobbling it in.. but dosnt want to go in.

I'm buying extender bolts to use them for bringing rhe box closer to the block and i guess that way it would line up as I screw it in more?

Pulling it it will longer bolts will probably just break whatever is stopping it, which i'd say is the splines on the clutch plate. The un-splined bit of the input shaft will be thru the clutch plate, but that doesn't mean it will just slide in. Make sure you have the centerline of the crank as closely lined up to the centerline of the input shaft as you can. Ie the box should be in the "as fully installed" position. Then its wobbling and twisting (to get the splines to mesh spline in groove, rather than spline to spline/groove to groove) and lots of persistence/swearing to get it in.

I only had 10-20mm to fully go in, got 20mm longer bolts and the box sided in like a dream! Its actually not that hard with jacks and ramps when you think back.

Only issue now is my drive shaft is slightly rubbing on the metal sheet cylinder at the end of the gearbox which is freaking annoying, also the fork boot wont go in too easy once everything else is fitted

and did my rear pads at the same time and they are squeaking like lil bitch wtf?!?!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...