Jump to content
SAU Community

Cefiro A31 Swap To Rb25 Need Help Please

aoooz

By aoooz,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

aoooz Newbie

aoooz

Posted
Posted
Hello Everyone

firstly I would like to say it's my honor to be a member in this wonderful forums and I'm glad to be with folks :)

my name is mohsin I am from UAE >Abu Dhabi city and my car is 93 Cefiro A31


np0xz6.png


the car running rb24s 2.4L carburetor the engine get old and it become very sick :frown:

so I decide to change it

and I thought about RB 25 or 20 DE or DET

So I got some BIg questions (sorry my bad I am noope ) to see If this swap will be good or ,,, i don't know ,,,


the engine cost are very close the rb20det /is $1100 and the rb25de non turbo / is $1100 the rb25DET /$1300


the swap will be for Daily driver

:- (90% Normal drive ) (no drift or race all the time) just A few race ;) ( use Air Condition in the summer )

my work is 7 mile away from home (Everyday) and every month go to Dubai which is about 100 mile away

and the average speed on Highway is 85/mph (some times will be 90/mph ) Cefiro factory radiator


-(no additional mode in the motor )

everything stoooock (no turbo boost ) stock rev limiter

and I only need 200~250hp


Q1- is the RB 25 or 20 (DE or DET) can be daily driver ??how the durability of the Engines (especially the RB25DET) ??

and can turbo engine as daily driver + highway or better to go with non turbo ??


and you know our weather hot in summer it's become about 115F 1:00PM !!!so just in case I have to mention this info


about RB25 I read in many forums about the RB25 is :

"engine had a crank collar issue where the snout was made to short and oil pump failures happened at high hp and high rpm " is this issue only on RB25 ? is it the 25DET & DE or only 25DET ?? about RB20DE & DET

I didn't find an issue as on 25 thst I read in many forums ,,,,


what your thought about this issue ??

I really like the RB25det output but I am worry about this issue ,,,and worry about what I mention above

("turbo engine as daily driver + highway )??


Q2- dose the engine maintenance easy or difficult ? I mean If I need to change sparks plug -fuel filter - engine belts - etc .....) If I take the car to workshop the Mechanic dose he can fix & repair ?? my brother drive 98 lexus GS300

2j motor and the Mechanic he deal easy with it !

how is the rb compared to that ?? dose it easy to deal with it ?? I mean it's a normal like others motors ??


nissan Skyline R33&R32 dosen't exist on UAE market in 90s so for the part I know that share some parts like :-

the spark plug I can fit the 300zx and fuel filter can fit the cefiro A31

but the Oil filter ?? don't know


So the Q - Do the RB parts interchange with any other Nissan cars ??


Finally (sorry for the big topic :blush: ) but I really want your advice

dose the RB25DET is reliable and durable for daily normal driver ??? or you advice me to another opinion

like RB25DE (non turbo) or RB20DET) ??


waiting for your help & advice


And big sorry again for the long topic

and very big thanks in advance for help ......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...