Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i know what your going to say 'search is your friend'. but i have read them and think i still need some help before blowing good money on aftermaket coil-packs i didnt need.

after installing a powerfc and upping the boost, the car has developed a misfire in two places. the first only happens about half of the time, when coming on boost at wot and low rpm, say 2900. and the second happens all of the time, at 5000rpm+ on full load. the tuner tried to get around it but thinks its the coil packs and couldn't really do much about it.

mods include: bkr7evx platinum plugs, hks fmic, cam gear at 3.5deg., powerfc, evc5 at 0.9bar, 3" full exhaust, shielded pod. te rest is stock turbo, inj, internals, manifolds etc...

i'm thinking one of the following:

collapsing pipe between tubo and afm

fatigued coil packs (highly likely)

air leak (unlikely - all new hoses and clamps etc.)

afm (dirty - i will ask the tuner if the voltage was ok, im sure he would have checked tho, if it was bad this would also eliminate the collapsing pipe)

plugs (fouled - i did the plugs myself at home, drove the car 20km to the dyno, not sure if they would foul up in this time)

any input appreciated.

-rb25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46305-another-misfiring-r33/
Share on other sites

Hey dude.

Had the samt problem with mine when i upped the boost... and i had the same thought, coil packs... but, I think i may had some good news for you.

It was only the spark plugs. Try putting in some normal NON platmum or iridium plugs, and make sure the gap is 0.6. Use NGK BCP6ES make sure its the NON RESISTOR type.

I'm pretty certain that this will stop your misfiring. Try this first before anything else, as it's the cheapet thing that could go wrong. - looking at your mods, its also the most likely.

Give it a go and lemme know how it goes .

M

hey ross im having the same problem........i have my car tuned now and i get a couple of slight misfires at 12psi, no where as bad as it was previously but its still annoying.

Im using the bcpr6es and it was suggested to me to try them at 0.6 too, i cant think of what else is doing it other then the coil packs as i dont use a afm now, changed fuel pump, changed plugs from bkr7evx and all hoses and connections are fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...