Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i know what your going to say 'search is your friend'. but i have read them and think i still need some help before blowing good money on aftermaket coil-packs i didnt need.

after installing a powerfc and upping the boost, the car has developed a misfire in two places. the first only happens about half of the time, when coming on boost at wot and low rpm, say 2900. and the second happens all of the time, at 5000rpm+ on full load. the tuner tried to get around it but thinks its the coil packs and couldn't really do much about it.

mods include: bkr7evx platinum plugs, hks fmic, cam gear at 3.5deg., powerfc, evc5 at 0.9bar, 3" full exhaust, shielded pod. te rest is stock turbo, inj, internals, manifolds etc...

i'm thinking one of the following:

collapsing pipe between tubo and afm

fatigued coil packs (highly likely)

air leak (unlikely - all new hoses and clamps etc.)

afm (dirty - i will ask the tuner if the voltage was ok, im sure he would have checked tho, if it was bad this would also eliminate the collapsing pipe)

plugs (fouled - i did the plugs myself at home, drove the car 20km to the dyno, not sure if they would foul up in this time)

any input appreciated.

-rb25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46305-another-misfiring-r33/
Share on other sites

Hey dude.

Had the samt problem with mine when i upped the boost... and i had the same thought, coil packs... but, I think i may had some good news for you.

It was only the spark plugs. Try putting in some normal NON platmum or iridium plugs, and make sure the gap is 0.6. Use NGK BCP6ES make sure its the NON RESISTOR type.

I'm pretty certain that this will stop your misfiring. Try this first before anything else, as it's the cheapet thing that could go wrong. - looking at your mods, its also the most likely.

Give it a go and lemme know how it goes .

M

hey ross im having the same problem........i have my car tuned now and i get a couple of slight misfires at 12psi, no where as bad as it was previously but its still annoying.

Im using the bcpr6es and it was suggested to me to try them at 0.6 too, i cant think of what else is doing it other then the coil packs as i dont use a afm now, changed fuel pump, changed plugs from bkr7evx and all hoses and connections are fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...