Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Recently bought a r33 gtst s1 knowing it had a fair few issues. I'm trying to fix everything up but I've come across this little black box spliced into the main wiring under the steering wheel / above the pedals. It has no branding on it other than a model number (40ae018294111, which turns up nothing), and a white turn dial. There's also a black box above it which is ziptied, not sure what that is either. The previous owner has no idea what it is as he never got it running correctly either. Checking the history it seems to have boost gauges/controllers added / removed multiple times so its a bit of a spaghetti inside and outside the car. Here's some images of it (they are awful sorry!) - http://imgur.com/a/b8vv9

It's hooked up to a red,black,white cable, obviously power,ground + other. I checked the wiring diagram but couldn't figure it out myself, any help would be appreciated if possible. As well as the main running issue being it won't rev above 2,500rpm without severe misfiring. I assume its the coils, since 4 are OEM and 2 are from an rb20, but if you have any other ideas other than the usual AAC valve, spark plugs etc, that would be sweet as well!

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463529-unknown-dial-under-steering-wheel/
Share on other sites

Right right, that makes more sense. Cheers guys. Rather than making a new thread, any ideas about a very loud screeching at clockwise full lock. That would be an overly tight power steering pump tensioner right? Since it's stock suspension that should rule out body rubbing, but it definitely sounds more mechanical. Is my assumption correct?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...