Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day everyone..

New to buying an import car and looking to get my 1st very Stagea very soon.

I have been looking around on gumtree and have found a dealer in Tarenpoint ,

Nagoya Motors Pty Ltd does anyone have experience with these guys , are they reputable? I am currently looking at three different models that he has for sale and spoke to him on the phone today .I was asking him about getting the radio gps etc converted to work in aus and I was told for an extra 550 they will convert from Jap to Aus. Is this a reasonable price?

I will be hitting you guys up over the next few weeks as I have no idea what to look for with an import or what needs to happen with the insurance and purchase period. Lol complete import noob here.

Cheers

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465138-gday/
Share on other sites

Hi!

The Jap to Aus conversion is quite expensive IMO but I'm pretty sure that is about the going rate. It's up to you whether you think it's worth while or not. Most people on here will tell you not to worry as its cool for a few weeks then you get over it, I kind of agree.

What models are you looking at?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465138-gday/#findComment-7739486
Share on other sites

2 of the cars I am looking at are a 04 350rx and a 250t-rs .. to be honest I am not sure what I am looking for exactly I just know that I really like the look of the Stagea in general, got a budget of around the 20k mark just want to have a hassal free , enjoyable motoring experience.

My mate has a c34 Autech 260RS which is a beautiful car and is responsible for my love of these cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465138-gday/#findComment-7739514
Share on other sites

So Forced induction is pretty high maintenance? I would lean towards Forced if I could be confident that there would be few issues .

Has anyone delt with Nagoya Motors? Eould be interested to hear if they are a good company to use.

Thanks for the replies so far everyone, appreciate it

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465138-gday/#findComment-7739769
Share on other sites

Should be more like $250 for the Engrish conversion, I still use mine, it reminds me of a Nintendo 64.

20k will get you a lot of Stag.

Haven't heard anything about Nagoya Motors but my rule of buying a car is never buy new and never buy from a used car dealer.

My advice is research, research, research so you know what you are getting.

Give me the 20k and I'll find a nice private sale one for you and keep the change. :thumbsup:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465138-gday/#findComment-7739816
Share on other sites

2 of the cars I am looking at are a 04 350rx and a 250t-rs .. to be honest I am not sure what I am looking for exactly I just know that I really like the look of the Stagea in general, got a budget of around the 20k mark just want to have a hassal free , enjoyable motoring experience.

My mate has a c34 Autech 260RS which is a beautiful car and is responsible for my love of these cars.

20k?

Import a PM35 through Iron Chef / Prestige Motorsport / Jspec etc

It will take a bit longer than from a dealer, but you can have the joy of looking through the auction vehicles for exactly what you are after.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465138-gday/#findComment-7740098
Share on other sites

20k?

Import a PM35 through Iron Chef / Prestige Motorsport / Jspec etc

It will take a bit longer than from a dealer, but you can have the joy of looking through the auction vehicles for exactly what you are after.

This!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465138-gday/#findComment-7740126
Share on other sites

Will look into this more. Hadn't really thought of going about it that way as I presumed it would be more costly..

haha, no.

I ended up paying just under $16k for my PNM35 at a time when they were high 20's-high 30's at the one dealership that had compliance for them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465138-gday/#findComment-7740973
Share on other sites

M35 = 2WD series 1 (VQ25dd, VQ30dd)

NM35 = 4WD series 1 (VQ25dd, VQ30dd or VQ25det)

PM35 = 2wd series 2 (VQ25dd or VQ35de)

PNM35 - 4wd series 2 (VQ25dd or VQ35de)

It should be noted that nobody when "we" reference M35/NM35, "we" are referring to VQ25det powered series 1 M35's and more likely VQ35de powered series 2 when referencing PM35/PNM35

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465138-gday/#findComment-7741508
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...