Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1996 Nissan Skyline R33 GTR V-Spec. 367AWKW E85 Flex

Excellent condition inside and out. 123,000k approx.

Specs are as follows, chances are that I've missed things:

Engine – Rebuilt November 2012 – Can provide majority of receipts

Engine block was completely machined (decked, acid dipped and welsh plugs were replaced, crank balanced, bores honed, oil galleries drilled out, x-rayed for cracks ect)

New CP forged pistons with 9:1 compression
I-beam Forged Rods
N1 Oil Pump with Reimax billet oil pump gear
Trust Oil Sump Baffle with extended oil pickup
New Alternator
All seals and gaskets were replaced with OEM items, with the exception of a cosmetic metal head gasket.
All new OEM heater hoses – Over $700 worth of hoses
New Clutch Fan
ATI 1000HP Harmonic Balancer
Greedy 19-Row Oil Cooler with Thermostat and Oil filter relocation kit
New oil pressure sender unit

Head has been serviced, with new OEM camshafts installed Oil / Air separator Nismo Engine and Gearbox mounts

New Thermostat

Turbo/Exhaust

 

Garret 2860-7’s with HKS actuators
X-Force Dump Pipes
HKS Front Pipes and CAT
3.5 Inch Custom Exhaust

Driveline

 

Gearbox was refreshed with new syncros at Award and Diff in Sydney in February 2015 new 4th gear set installed November 2014, serviced with Redline Lightweight Shockproof

Transfer case was inspected by Award and Diff and serviced with new transfer case fluid. ATESSA actuator piston has been modified to allow faster engagement of the front wheels.

V-spec Electronic Diff was serviced with new fluids

Nismo Coppermix Twin-Plate Clutch

Hicas lock out bar.

Ignition/CPU
 

Haltech with Flex Fuel

Extra sensors including Oil pressure and knock

This will put the car into limp mode if either are going to damage the engine. Really important safety feature on an RB!

Splitfire Coilpacks
New coilpack harness
Greedy Profec B Electronic boost controller with hi/low boost settings

Tarzan G-Box Installed – Replaces stock G-force sensor. (http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/06/the-gt-r-gets-tarzan-ed/)

Viper Alarm system with immobiliser, tilt sensor, glass break sensor and shock sensor

Fuel

 

E85 Flex. 300AWKW on 98, 367 RWKW on E85
Walbro 240 hiflow fuel pump
1000cc Injectors.

Suspension/Handling/Braking

 

Tien Monoflex Coilovers
Nismo ball joints
New tension Rods and Universal links
Cv Joints replaced
Suspension calibrated by Capital Steering and Suspension in Canberra

Nagisa Auto strut braces – Attach to front quarter panel

New DBA T3 Rotors and Project Mu Pads with DOT 4.1 brake fluid

Interior

R34 GTR Leather drivers seat

Nismo Centre Gauges
Genuine Nissan Floor mats

Exterior

Series 3 Xenon Headlights
Nismo Clear Front Indicators
Nismo Clear Side Indicators
OEM Series 3 Front Lip with Brake Ducts
Series 3 Bonnet Lip and N1 Vents
Nismo Wing Caps (Carbon)
Nismo Weathershields

Other things

New Battery
Serviced with Motul Fluids ever 5,000kms

Tint

I have spare parts including stock edu and Quest LED Tail-lights, gaskets etc.

The car looks stock, particularly under the bonnet, so you will have no trouble with Rego or defects. This has been done purposely.

I’m pretty sure I have the dereg papers somewhere to prove the K’s, but you can tell by the condition that they are genuine.

I have over $30,000 in receipts.

$27,000 Fixed.

No finance owing. If you don’t have $27K to spend, please don’t contact me until you have. The price is very sharp for a well sorted, reliable GTR.

Location, Queanbeyan NSW.

Please note the car will come with unpainted R33 GTR rims not the dark ones in the pics.

James o413 88 44 08

 

IMG_6455_zpskynkbgeh.jpg

IMG_6454_zpsl458bdlz.jpg

GTR%20skyline_zpshsirfork.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Daisy%20DynoGraph_zpsgtz6khb4.jpg20150924_123700_zpswuakzvla.jpg

On 7/17/2016 at 2:08 PM, DJBarnstar said:

Have not had this vehicle at the drags however.

maybe you should fix up your signature :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...