Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok GTR owners and experts. I am new the forum and have had my R32 GTR for about 2 months.

While on a long (1hr) drive I noticed on acceleration I had almost no power. The car surges and I can her the recirculation valves cycling opening and closing while accelerating. Also noticed sometimes the Hicas light flickers on and off.

Car details:

1993 RB26 GTR 5 speed manual.

Stock except for

Aftermarket radiator

Dual stage Turbosmart boost controller (set to 10psi).

Diagnosis so far.

Replaced PTU (upgraded -yellow jacket) - No change.

Checked Timing (22 deg BTDC).

Replaced sparkplugs - no change.

 

Anyone out there had similar problem and solution?

About to check fuel pressure.

I suspect ECCS or Fuel pump controller. I do not want to throw money at the problem without a proper diagnosis.

Thanks for any assistance.

Michael.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466053-weird-problemneed-help/
Share on other sites

Thanks Ravi.

I will check voltages of AFM when cold and try to check when hot.

the Voltmeter is reading  a steady 14V. So I cannot see it being a voltage or charging issue but I wil keep an eye on it.

Changed the fuel filter today then drove 300km in the car. Did 100 Km with no problem the other 200 km with the problem. No acceleleration, missing and surging with boost fluctuation but not overboost.

Remember all is well when cold but after an hour of driving the problem occurs.

Michael.

Edited by msammut
spelling

Well I think I found the problem. While checking fuel pressure i moved the wiring to the injector connectors and got a change on no 6 injector wiring. On closer inspection the injector plug was half off. I pushed it in all the way. Now there is no change when wiring is moved.

Need to drive it to check but i think this was the problem.

Fuel pressure idling and under load was in spec anyway.

Michael.

Well I think I found the problem. While checking fuel pressure i moved the wiring to the injector connectors and got a change on no 6 injector wiring. On closer inspection the injector plug was half off. I pushed it in all the way. Now there is no change when wiring is moved.

Need to drive it to check but i think this was the problem.

Fuel pressure idling and under load was in spec anyway.

Michael.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...