Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have read over a few threads on brake pads but I am a little worried that my brakes might have other problems outside of pad choice.

I have an R32 GT-R and it's brakes are so bad I think my car should be defected!

I have:

- twice flushed the fluids and replaced with super Motul stuff

- machined all rotors

- replaced stock pads with EBC Greenstuff pads

And still, after all of this work and cash I find the brakes to be shockingly bad. When I hit the pedal it feels squishy and soft and the car will pull up but only if I absolutely hammer the pedal in. When I really stab the brake I can hear the ABS "pshhht" but can't feel the ABS... strange shit.

I am lost for direction now. Any suggestions? I know my brakes can get a lot better than this.

I want the car set up for track days so I don't care how long the pads last me so long as they work. I don't care too much for cost at this stage as I need to be able to stop!!! But I would prefer to do problem solving on the kit I have on as oposed to splashing out on a new set of Brembos etc.

Worse comes to worse I will have to travel out of the city to Wetherill Park to visit racebrakes but it's far away for me... unless any of you know some brakes specialists near the city in Sydney?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Give RaceBrakes a call and book it in for 30mins on a Saturday and get them to take it for a drive around the block. They diagnosed my problem within 100m of driving and then spent the remainder of the 2km drive commenting on other components (suspension, tyres etc).

I guess the thing you haven't mention is how the master cylinder is, and personally I don't have much time for the EBC pads, they faded pretty quickly.

But anyway, like Ben said, try Racebrakes, those guys know what they are talking about.

Thanks guys.

I have given Racebrakes a call. Greg was it? Very helpful guy.

He didn't think too much of my EBC Greenstuff pads and suggested (since my car is primarily a track car) that instead of buying RB74 pads I go all the way and get their top of the line race pads all round so I have (Damn it $710!!!).

If this doesn't stop me now I will be terribly upset!

Takes bugger all to recondition a master cyl. But saying that I wouldn't give advice on how to do it to a skyline as I have never done one.... only nissan patrols and such
My advice is don't bother. I had a new seal kit put in my Master Cylinder which did fark all, I then had it bored and sleeved which made it "driveable" in the end (and after 6mths of fighting with my local mechanic) I bought a brand new genuine master cylinder from Nissan Japan.

If only I listened to RaceBrakes advice 9mths earlier (I was broke at the time and saving $200 here or there was what I tried to do). In the end I spent the money and couldn't be happier, just wish i'd done it 9mths earlier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...