Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I need some help identifying this diff I pulled out of my r33. I bought a stock r33 diff and got them swapped because this one was a nuisance to daily drive. Every time I turned at low speed the car would bounce/shudder.

When I bought the car the guy said it had a Nismo 1.5 Way Diff. I thought something was wrong with my car then after googling the symptoms I found that those diffs are supposed to make heaps of noise at low speed turns so I bought a stock r33 diff and got that put in.

So now I want to sell the "Nismo 1.5 Way" but I want to make sure it is one so I don't rip anyone off.

What do you guys think? I can take more photos if you can't tell from these.

Cheers.

20160828_144701.jpg

20160828_144709.jpg

20160828_144817.jpg

20160828_144832.jpg

Edited by r33420
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466523-need-help-to-identify-this-diff/
Share on other sites

The key pic internally is to take the inside of the hole you can just see in the first pic. Assuming its a mechanical centre there are ramps inside that determine if it's 1, 2 or 1.5 way, they look like |/, \/, or a halfway between those 2 respectively.  

Also there will be a ratio stamped on the main gear as well, something like 37:9 which is the 4.11 diff. edit, cancel that, I can see you have that in the 3rd pic

I don't know how to tell the brand of the centre, others might, but personally I don't think it matters too much

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...