Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTS vs GTS-T Diff

Hi, im in dire need of answers here, iv recently bought a r32 gts (n/a) chassi with a uprated kaaz diff in it, i was wondering if this would fit in a GTS-T (turbo version)?

the backplate does look a bit different when i compair the 2, but i havent gotten a chance to dig deeper into it since the 2 diffs are still in the cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467868-r32-gts-vs-gts-t-diff/
Share on other sites

There's absolutely no way to answer your question.  That car is at least 23 years old and could have had any number of different diffs, diff housings and even rear subframes in it.

Come back with some more complete descriptions and/or some photos.  The reasons for this are;

GTS original;

  • Open R200 diff, in same housing as any other R32 (including GTSt).
  • 6 bolt driveshafts (3x2, same as S chassis cars)

I was going to say that the NA cars have a Non-HICAS rear subframe (which might explain why things look different at the location of the diff).  But to be 100% honest, as I give no fark for the NA cars, I simply can't remember whether they even have HICAS or not.  If they do, it's just one more reason not to buy one!
 

GTSt original;

  • VLSD (viscous) R200.  Same housing.
  • 5 bolt driveshafts
  • HICAS rear subframe, meaning that you have a HICAS steering rack or possibly a HICAS delete bar running across the back of the diff.

 

My R32 GTSt however, has an R32 diff housing with S15 helical diff internals.  Therefore it has 3x2 bolt S15 stub axles and matching 3x2 driveshafts.  I threw the entire HICAS rear subframe into the scrap metal bin and replaced it with a non-HICAS one from a Cefiro.  Therefore my car matches none of the above lists.

 

As to your KAAZ diff.....if it is a KAAZ LSD then it almost certainly was intended for a turbo, as no-one would bother putting one behind an NA.  Check the driveshafts, take teh photos, get back to us.

Thank you for your kind reply GTSboy, the reason i bought the GTS is because it has alot of aftermarket parts (apexi N1 coilovers, steering angle kit, Work, SSR rims, granador mirrors.. you name it) for a cheap price, But back on topic. :) 

My GTS-T has a stock R200 VLSD wich is starting to go bad, 5 bolt driveshafts as you said. Looking at the GTS it has 3x2 bolt pattern, will take some pictures tomorrow.

OK.

I have written many words on the interchangeability (or not!) of diffs across all these cars.  Whilst the R200 is a fairly consistent thing, there are a bunch of annoying details.  The 5 bolt stub axles in your turbo VLSD, have different spline lengths to other more normal diffs.  The open diff in the NAs has different lengths splines (I think, not 100% sure, because again I give no fark).  The aftermarket centres to replace the VLSD are usually made to accept the (unusual) spline lengths from the VLSD.  Where these manufacturers also make an LSD to go into an (originally) NA diff, they might not be the same.

Your KAAZ diff has the 3x2 bolt axles -- this could mean either that the diff is properly to suit an R32 NA....or it could mean that it was intended to go into an S13.  The S13 option is 99.99% more likely.  If I was wanting to put such a diff into an NA R32, I would go look for a complete one from an S13 because it would be the same housing and accept the same driveshafts.  The only hassle with taking diffs from completely different donor cars is that the crownwheel and pinion gearing might not be right for you.  But swapping those over is also done a lot under these circumstances.

Ah.  I was about to say that the 4 bolt rear mount is the correct one for R32.  So that at least means that the car hasn't received an S14 or R33 subframe swap.  And of course the wrecker's paint pen tells us that it's R32.

Anyway, the turbo rear cover from your driveable car will go straight on, as WMDC35 above said, offers slightly more capacity and cooling.

Mental note.  The nuts holding that diff to the subframe are all wrong.  They shouldn't be dome nuts, and the nyloc replacing the missing one isn't suitable either.  Hopefully the ones on your driveable car are correct.

  • Like 1

Cheers for the reply guys. Yeah i laughed a bit when i went under to take the picture about that nut :P. The nuts on my driveable car are all stock, diffs never been touched.

So its that simple? I just take it out and use the 3x2 driveshafts with the GTS-T backplate and im set? (yeah sounds easier than it is :P)
The 3x2 driveshafts/axels do bolt up with the turbo hubs? Should be identical from what i can see visually
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
×
×
  • Create New...