Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rb20det stupid noise

Hey guys , I own made nissans, s13 sr20det, Datsun 510 sr20det , s13 vh45de awesome build . And now a r32 Gtst 4 door . I lived in USA and shipped it to Austria in Europe . 

 

Now recently i developed this noise and I can't seem to figure it out . 

I changed the oil and same issue , I did the check with a screwdriver to see if there is movement and no movement found, I know it's coming out of #6 area but I can't seem to figure it out . Please any input would help . I'm the only registered skylinein my country . Noise seems to go away when I unplug coil #6 I tried swapping out the coils around but still same noise happens between 2,000  - 2,500 only 

 

here is a video . 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467942-rb20det-stupid-noise/
Share on other sites

Yeah I need order a tool to check the compression or ask around a buddy if they got one. It's not common here to work on your own car , everyone just goes to the mechanic. That's why everyone just has a basic car or a car with just wheels or some sort of new Audi or BMW or vw chipped . I'm the only registered skyline Gtst and there are 3 other Gtr here but own by a dealer that sells them and for him to just look at my car he asking €600 up front .  It's a steal 

When you unplug the coil there is no spark, therefore no combustion in cylinder 6, however the crank still turns so the rod/piston still goes up and down (in a normal situation).

When there is spark/ignition i.e. combustion you get the "clack clack clack" . That's why I think it's serious and maybe the big end bearing.

I have heard the same/similar noise twice with my GTR and both times it was the bearing :(

Good luck Sammy

If you were in a position to pick up another engine that might be your best bet. If you have another car to get around in you could take the time to pull your motor out and fix it.

But borrow a compression gauge first and see if your motor is sick. Does it smoke and use oil?

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Sinista32 said:

When you unplug the coil there is no spark, therefore no combustion in cylinder 6, however the crank still turns so the rod/piston still goes up and down (in a normal situation).

When there is spark/ignition i.e. combustion you get the "clack clack clack" . That's why I think it's serious and maybe the big end bearing.

I have heard the same/similar noise twice with my GTR and both times it was the bearing :(

Good luck Sammy

My car does burn oil so either way it was needing a rebuild , is this a problem that I can just fix with replacing all the parts with new ones or do I just need a different motor ? I just would hate to have to buy another old Rb20det to rebuild it also ! 

2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

If you were in a position to pick up another engine that might be your best bet. If you have another car to get around in you could take the time to pull your motor out and fix it.

But borrow a compression gauge first and see if your motor is sick. Does it smoke and use oil?

Yeah it's probably best to fix it up , unfortunately the nearest place I can get swaps is in Netherlands that i know of , and i spoke to them yesterday and they said all they can acquire is rb25det . I have to research more and see who else around me sells motors from jdm cars arounds . And it's just another risk buying a 20 plus year old motor . I want to fix it because my motor burn oil so either way it needed a rebuild just wanted to know if I could fix the click click noise with new parts or did I just ruin my block 

If you're burning oil you'd probably be better off buying a used long block and rebuilding it then just running yours till it blows.

Burning oil means pistons rings are on their way out...which you should (really need to) rehone the block and head to do. I personally wouldn't see the point in throwing new bearings into a motor that is going to need to be apart not too far down the line

If you are not in a rush,  pull your engine out and strip it down and measure it. If it doesn't need a rebore then you can just do rings and bearings etc.

If it does need machining then you are looking at a rebore, new pistons etc. At this point you need to decide what ambitions you have for the car - and replacing with an RB25DET (preferably a Neo) would be the way to go. But if you want to limit your investment then fixing up the current motor will probably work out cheaper and you will have some confidence that it will last a while.

  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Ed.williams5 said:

If you're burning oil you'd probably be better off buying a used long block and rebuilding it then just running yours till it blows.

Burning oil means pistons rings are on their way out...which you should (really need to) rehone the block and head to do. I personally wouldn't see the point in throwing new bearings into a motor that is going to need to be apart not too far down the line

That's a good idea , so is it safe to say just run my car till the knock gets really bad and just buy a used bottom end and rebuild it till my end just gives up ? I found a used bottom end for €160 in UK so I can buy it now and start to rebuild it till my shit gives up . Would any of you recommend that idea ? Will it cause any damage to my head or anything else ? That way I could do this with a bit of more time to gather all the parts from over seas or other countries to rebuild it . 

2 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

If you are not in a rush,  pull your engine out and strip it down and measure it. If it doesn't need a rebore then you can just do rings and bearings etc.

If it does need machining then you are looking at a rebore, new pistons etc. At this point you need to decide what ambitions you have for the car - and replacing with an RB25DET (preferably a Neo) would be the way to go. But if you want to limit your investment then fixing up the current motor will probably work out cheaper and you will have some confidence that it will last a while.

I would love to do a rb25det swap but the rules here are so strict, I can't even put a aftermarket air filter without going to a certified mechanic and letting him look at it and do some tests and then approve and  pay him a fee and get a certificate that he approved and then that it to my insurance and they put it on my title . Bunch of bs if you ask me , lol unless I just swapped it and cross my fingers they won't find out when I go to my yearly inspection which I doubt they would find out because they have no idea what car this is but if they were to find out I would be f**ked on paying fines and making me swap it out to the original motor . Unless I grind the block number out and stamped Rb20det on it then I think they wouldn't have a clue . Plus what extra work would I have to do to put a rb25det in my car ? Could I use my trans and clutch ? I forgot to mentioned that I have a twin disc clutch and a old school blitz standalone with 6 secondary injectors and a bigger garret turbo with external waste gate and fmic and cams ( don't remember what cams ) digital boost controller , oil cooler and ps cooler , driftworks hicas delete kit and BC br coilovers , and I use 98 octane fuel only . Last time I dyno my car in USA Florida I did 367 to the wheel at 18 psi and 312 to the wheel at 10 psi 

Good I don't know, I would tear it apart and inspect it anyway, if you buy a stock bottom end will result in the same thing. Living in europe too I thought buying it for a time but a 25 will always be better and cheaper on the long term.

Do they really check the engine number in your country ? An RB25 is pretty stealthy if you don't know the car.

Yes your trans and clutch will bolt right away to the RB25. You just need an RB25 with its harness and ECU. It would be better to find a S1 RB25 as it use the same maf as your RB20.

 

And no I wouldn't run your rb20 as it is, you'll just ruin the cranck and maybe the rod and block if the rod finally look for a way out of its misery through the block.

9 hours ago, R32austian said:

Guys is this a good option? Or should I just buy a stock bottom end ? 

 

http://www.jdmdistro.com/shop/engines/nissan-skyline-rb23-stroker-forged-rb20det-engine/

That looks like a good option. Should work well with the bolt ons you have. I would still take the sump off and check the bottom end before fitting.

9 hours ago, R32austian said:

Guys is this a good option? Or should I just buy a stock bottom end ? 

 

http://www.jdmdistro.com/shop/engines/nissan-skyline-rb23-stroker-forged-rb20det-engine/

That looks like a good option. Should work well with the bolt ons you have. I would still take the sump off and check the bottom end before fitting.

Just want to start by saying thanks to all of you guys for the input , very helpful !!! Here is a update with my r32 

 

 

 

im in search for a Rb20det complete block . If you know where I can possibly get one please direct me to it , here in Austria it's easier finding gold or diamonds in the mountains than finding anything skyline related lol . 

 

That rb23 block got sold already so that's not a option anymore ..... sucks and getting a used rb25det and then using it is so risky for me because I don't know how dependable it could be maybe I will need to do a rebuild on it and that's more money I have to spend so I rather just rebuild my more with a knowing Rb20det block that has no knock and rebuilding everything.

 

let me know where to get a block please 

UK and Irland should be the main sources for this. You may still can use your present block and cranck if you stop running it.

Try driftworks, SXOC or gtr.co.uk forums for example. Donedeal.ie or ebay may be viable source too I think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...